Tutorials, Useful Threads, & Customizing Questions

I’ve been trying to paint a few of my TVC Phase 1 clones into Captains/Commanders. Can anyone help me out with the type of paint I should be using so it’ll match the texture? The paint I used isn’t exactly fitting the best. Thank you!
Modellers acrylic paint like they use for warhammer figures should work ok, i use "Vallejo model color" or any other brand that's available. The tricky bit is to put it on in multiple thin layers to match the texture of originaliteit paint. Youtube is filled with tutorials on how to use the paint correctly.
 
Can you show us a picture? Most of these fixes can be done by using bits of lego or random pieces of plastic, just need to know the size of your figure and what it kind of looks like.
Be sure to check out Toypolloi "The godfather of toy repairs" he has an entire youtube channel dedicated to these kind of repairs on all sorts of broken toys.
Awesome, thanks for sharing that, love the A-Team intro too.
 
Does anyone have any information on boiling & popping the new Vintage Collection Boba Fett? Do the shoulders boil and pop out of the socket? Or does the chest piece have to be cracked open? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Does anyone have any information on boiling & popping the new Vintage Collection Boba Fett? Do the shoulders boil and pop out of the socket? Or does the chest piece have to be cracked open? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
No experience with the retro figures but cracking open a chestpiece is not the way to go.
I would try the b&p and if i doesnt work just cut of the limb and re attatch it with a Lego connector pin Toy polloi can show you how
 
Anyone know any shop or seller that has casts of the Hovertank/Juggernaut driver helmet?
Looked through all of the shops in the other thread and didn't see one, really want to replace the oversized helmets on Din and Miggs
 
Question for the esteemed group. I have an idea for a new project. My son is taking 3D printing lessons and him and I are likely going to tackle a project together. One of the elements that I could use though is chain mail. Is there any 6-inch figures (Legends or otherwise; perhaps even older ToyBiz LotR stuff) that has any chain mail overlays? Looking for something for a larger figure.
 
Question for the esteemed group. I have an idea for a new project. My son is taking 3D printing lessons and him and I are likely going to tackle a project together. One of the elements that I could use though is chain mail. Is there any 6-inch figures (Legends or otherwise; perhaps even older ToyBiz LotR stuff) that has any chain mail overlays? Looking for something for a larger figure.
Maybe an Indiana Jones Adventure Series Grail Knight??? At least you'd have the head, hands and lower legs covered, you could dremel out the part on his head and conceivably use it on another sculpt if the older grey faced one isn't going to work. There are Game Of Thrones figures, not big on them overall for customs as the three I'd picked up secondhand were not very useful to me.
 
Maybe an Indiana Jones Adventure Series Grail Knight??? At least you'd have the head, hands and lower legs covered, you could dremel out the part on his head and conceivably use it on another sculpt if the older grey faced one isn't going to work. There are Game Of Thrones figures, not big on them overall for customs as the three I'd picked up secondhand were not very useful to me.
Thanks for this but it is not quite what I had hoped. Its on me for not clarifying. I am looking for something over the torso, shoulders. Something sculpted, kind of like a Captain America torso but as an overlay not sculpted to the torso. I swear I remember some figure with like a shredded chain mail armor overlay from something but cannot for the life of me recall.
 
Thanks for this but it is not quite what I had hoped. Its on me for not clarifying. I am looking for something over the torso, shoulders. Something sculpted, kind of like a Captain America torso but as an overlay not sculpted to the torso. I swear I remember some figure with like a shredded chain mail armor overlay from something but cannot for the life of me recall.
I gotcha, no problem. I can't think of anything offhand but I'll keep my eyes open and post if I see something.(y)
 
You could buy a length of chain and glue it it rows. Actors use wool painted silver.

Alternatively, you could try covering the parts in whatever clay you use, cross-hatch a diamond pattern, and then poke a hole with a pin. While I've never tried it, that was probably one of the first customizing tips I learned, but it was for D&D miniatures.
 
Thanks for all the insights everyone I really appreciate it.

I did stumble across something that might work. I was wondering if anyone has both the Diamond Select LOTR 7" Moria Orc and any of the recent Build-a-Figure Hulks. There is apparently a shoulder chainmail overlay on the Orc and from pictures it looks like it would be perfect but I am worried about sizing. If someone has both would you mind putting the chainmail on a Hulk and snapping a picture?
 
Are they perhaps Fortnite Wild Card figures? I believe there was a 3 3/4 inch Fortnite line at one point.
 
Can anyone post some good tips about working with fabric on 1/18
I have a few customs I wanted to do for a while (baroness in dress etc)

What materials work best should they be sprayed with starch or something else?

Haven’t liked previous attempts & the only site that sells something similar is in China.
 
Buy woman's panties!

Back when Yakface had a forum, that is what the hands-down best customizer in soft goods used.
 
The situation: I ordered a few Rebel Ground Crew figures from Tunghori a few months ago. Unfortunately, one had a defective elbow joint that immediately broke... Looked as though it had an air bubble inside the cast. Tung has always been able to supply replacement parts on previous orders, but I guess these guys sold out and he couldn't come through this time.

With most figs I'd swap the arms and use it as a custom base; however, the RGC jumpsuit has a unique sculpted texture that would make other arms look out of place. I got sufficiently bored last night to attempt a repair:

1706756884995.png

I began by removing the broken peg from the upper arm with an X-acto, several small drill bits, and a dental pick. Next, I used a pin vise to drill into the elbow's joint disk and the replacement peg cut from a miscast Rebel Fleet Trooper's lower arm (which Tung was able to replace; post #20155 in the link). As a precaution, I used a drill bit to rotate the disk after drilling the hole, to make sure that my reinforcing metal upholstery pin wouldn't go all the way into the disk and prevent movement. The last step was to superglue the pin into the peg and the disk. I basically rolled the dice and hoped the glue wouldn't ooze everywhere and freeze the joint. Caught a lucky break there. ✌️ Also smoothed out the RFT peg with 800 grit paper and added a dab of dielectric grease to make sure it'd spin freely and not break the glue.

1706756910289.png

The weak spot of the repair is where the pin meets the elbow disk. The joint works, but there's no way it has the strength of a regular piece - Not much surface area for the glue to hold, and I'd imagine the metal pin would do a number on the joint disk if I fiddle with it too much. As a reminder to myself I filled one of his pegholes with bright blue paint so I know which one to baby. :)

1706756936664.png

Thanks for looking!
 
Med tape is also a fun fix if you are looking to make some battle hardened backgrounders.

I also have an unknown number of troopers who just can’t move their elbows due to model/super glue.
 
The situation: I ordered a few Rebel Ground Crew figures from Tunghori a few months ago. Unfortunately, one had a defective elbow joint that immediately broke... Looked as though it had an air bubble inside the cast. Tung has always been able to supply replacement parts on previous orders, but I guess these guys sold out and he couldn't come through this time.

With most figs I'd swap the arms and use it as a custom base; however, the RGC jumpsuit has a unique sculpted texture that would make other arms look out of place. I got sufficiently bored last night to attempt a repair:

View attachment 484416

I began by removing the broken peg from the upper arm with an X-acto, several small drill bits, and a dental pick. Next, I used a pin vise to drill into the elbow's joint disk and the replacement peg cut from a miscast Rebel Fleet Trooper's lower arm (which Tung was able to replace; post #20155 in the link). As a precaution, I used a drill bit to rotate the disk after drilling the hole, to make sure that my reinforcing metal upholstery pin wouldn't go all the way into the disk and prevent movement. The last step was to superglue the pin into the peg and the disk. I basically rolled the dice and hoped the glue wouldn't ooze everywhere and freeze the joint. Caught a lucky break there. ✌️ Also smoothed out the RFT peg with 800 grit paper and added a dab of dielectric grease to make sure it'd spin freely and not break the glue.

View attachment 484417

The weak spot of the repair is where the pin meets the elbow disk. The joint works, but there's no way it has the strength of a regular piece - Not much surface area for the glue to hold, and I'd imagine the metal pin would do a number on the joint disk if I fiddle with it too much. As a reminder to myself I filled one of his pegholes with bright blue paint so I know which one to baby. :)

View attachment 484418

Thanks for looking!
That's pretty great, your result looks like it's a best case scenario for a figure with a broken arm joint. I've attempted various solutions for such things and they're about as difficult a fix as there is. 10 out of 10 on the "how difficult is this" scale. No room for error and even if things go perfect, the joint could still break again down the road as you mentioned. I've fused together many joints just trying to delicately apply the glue on this kind of operation. Takes a steady hand and some pretty serious level of engineering.
 
Can anyone post some good tips about working with fabric on 1/18
Buy woman's panties!

The main attributes that material needs to work well in 1:18 scale are having weight while also not being stiff.
What works REALLY well that I have used for numerous customs are Microfiber eyeglass cleaning cloths.
They are really cheap on Amazon & come in lots of colors. The material is easy to cut & work with, & it doesn’t fray.

IMG_7352.jpeg
Some Amazon links here & here.

Some customs I have done with the material (ones I have pics of)…
IMG_1501.jpeg

Image 16.jpeg

Image 16.jpeg

D7CFB237-B4C8-4684-99B1-24CC9280DFFA.jpeg

As far as women‘s panties, most do work great. A lot of women’s clothing in general. Once a year when my wife purges her wardrobe I will go through what she wants to get rid of to see what gets donated to Strobeeone’s figure customs. 🤗
 
I’m not deluding myself into thinking it’s a “playable” fix, but he should at least be a worthy diorama backgrounder. :)
 
The situation: I ordered a few Rebel Ground Crew figures from Tunghori a few months ago. Unfortunately, one had a defective elbow joint that immediately broke... Looked as though it had an air bubble inside the cast. Tung has always been able to supply replacement parts on previous orders, but I guess these guys sold out and he couldn't come through this time.

With most figs I'd swap the arms and use it as a custom base; however, the RGC jumpsuit has a unique sculpted texture that would make other arms look out of place. I got sufficiently bored last night to attempt a repair:

View attachment 484416

I began by removing the broken peg from the upper arm with an X-acto, several small drill bits, and a dental pick. Next, I used a pin vise to drill into the elbow's joint disk and the replacement peg cut from a miscast Rebel Fleet Trooper's lower arm (which Tung was able to replace; post #20155 in the link). As a precaution, I used a drill bit to rotate the disk after drilling the hole, to make sure that my reinforcing metal upholstery pin wouldn't go all the way into the disk and prevent movement. The last step was to superglue the pin into the peg and the disk. I basically rolled the dice and hoped the glue wouldn't ooze everywhere and freeze the joint. Caught a lucky break there. ✌️ Also smoothed out the RFT peg with 800 grit paper and added a dab of dielectric grease to make sure it'd spin freely and not break the glue.

View attachment 484417

The weak spot of the repair is where the pin meets the elbow disk. The joint works, but there's no way it has the strength of a regular piece - Not much surface area for the glue to hold, and I'd imagine the metal pin would do a number on the joint disk if I fiddle with it too much. As a reminder to myself I filled one of his pegholes with bright blue paint so I know which one to baby. :)

View attachment 484418

Thanks for looking!

That is some excellent repair work. To add some strength to it instead of the pin you could use a self tapping micro screw & cut the head off to thread into both the disc & the post. The hole exists already from the pin & a dot of super glue to the hole when threading it works great to hold it in place.

A great screw set for custom work…
IMG_7357.jpeg

Here

& another here.

Both sets the screws are VERY small.
 
I’ll definitely check that set out. I use cut-off screws (usually #2, sometimes #4) for neck and pelvis post swaps but didn’t think to look for smaller screws. 👍🏻
 
A quick update to the Rebel Ground Crew elbow fix:

I replaced the upholstery pin with a tiny headless screw (size M1.7*6 from the first screw set linked by Strobeeone, thanks again!) and after test-fitting, used JB Weld to anchor it. Dug out most of the first replacement peg (should've gotten all of it, see below), and made another peg from the last of my miscast RFT forearms.

Can confirm it's a much stronger fix - After heating the upper arm and installing the screw-reinforced forearm, I found there was still enough of the old peg in the upper socket to prevent the forearm from seating. I immediately pulled the lower arm back out, and it remained intact. That's about the ultimate test for a joint repair, short of giving it to a four-year old to play with. :)
 
Can anyone post some good tips about working with fabric on 1/18
I have a few customs I wanted to do for a while (baroness in dress etc)

The main attributes that material needs to work well in 1:18 scale are having weight while also not being stiff.
What works REALLY well that I have used for numerous customs are Microfiber eyeglass cleaning cloths.
They are really cheap on Amazon & come in lots of colors. The material is easy to cut & work with, & it doesn’t fray.

View attachment 484493
Some Amazon links here & here.
for anyone wondering this worked well. Post is my first attempt & although not perfect it does the job well enough.
IMG_3116.jpeg
May try a few other ideas later. A little white glue also helps keep things in place.
 
May try a few other ideas later. A little white glue also helps keep things in place.

What works really well for mending fabric to fabric & also keeping the soft good in place on the figures is
Fabric Fuse Hem tape. The stuff is SERIOUSLY sticky and needs only a small piece. They carry it at Walmart,
Hobby Lobby, or just about any fabric store. It is pretty cheap too.

I also will use cut pieces of heat shrink tubing (for wires) for things like belts. A few of these Ugnaughts have them…
44277C19-A9C7-47A2-881E-F3B9AFA853B6.jpeg

Using a piece from a 1.5” tubing, once the figure is inside use a heat gun to make the tubing shrink down to the figure.
Works great.
 
I have a lot of warping lightsabers for 3.75 inch figures. How do I straighten them without accidentally breaking them?
 
How do I straighten them without accidentally breaking them?
As @Utinniii said
Warm them up first in hot water

I also use a metal coffee stir/straw that is slightly wider than the majority of the saber blades. I will put the saber in the straw as it softens then immediately put it in ice water while in the straw. Straightens them out perfectly.
 
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