The Black Series 6" Customs

Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Messages
1,724
Reaction score
1
I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I have picked up quite a few for repaints. I can tell you from experience making custom 3.75" astromechs that it's not easy. You'll need to practice quite a bit before you get something that's on par with Hasbro's quality.

As for paints, I always used the cheapo acrylic (DO NOT USE ENAMEL) paints from the craft section at Walmart. I don't think they carry the same brand anymore, but it used to be Folk Art at about $1 a bottle. I'd get the cheap brushes as well, from the same aisle. You'd definitely want to seal it afterwards. I used Testors dullcote that I had to order from their website. I never had a problem with chipping, except for paint rub from the ball joints, which isn't going to be a problem here.

No need to take them apart IMO, but if you feel the need, you can use the same technique that I used to use on the smaller guys. Go to the bathroom or some other smaller room. Take the figure and repeatedly throw it on the ground until the dome opens up. You'll want to be in a small room to make finding the small parts inside a lot easier as they tend to fly all over the place. Maybe not the best method, but it did work for me and never damaged the figure in the process. I don't know how that would work with these, so try at your own risk. I suppose you could try using an xacto knife to cut around the seam, but you'll probably end up either cutting your finger or making a new seam.

This made me laugh. I picture you in a racquet ball court smacking R2 around with a ping pong paddle.
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
2,431
Reaction score
0
Dang the non edit button!!! Sorry meant to but this.



Has any one thought of doing or has done any of these custom for the BS6 R2 yet?
No need to take them apart IMO, but if you feel the need, you can use the same technique that I used to use on the smaller guys. Go to the bathroom or some other smaller room. Take the figure and repeatedly throw it on the ground until the dome opens up. You'll want to be in a small room to make finding the small parts inside a lot easier as they tend to fly all over the place. Maybe not the best method, but it did work for me and never damaged the figure in the process. I don't know how that would work with these, so try at your own risk. I suppose you could try using an xacto knife to cut around the seam, but you'll probably end up either cutting your finger or making a new seam.
Here's another way to separate a figure at the seams:

If you have a table-mounted vice, you can wrap the figure in a towel or old t-shirt. Then place the figure in the vice and crank it until it begins to squeeze the figure apart. You won't want to crank the vice too tightly, but it should allow the figure to start to separate at the seam. (You can then use a small screw driver, etc., to wedge the figure apart.

Ive tried this with GIJoe figures and it doesn't damage them, allowing you to reset the figure (and glue it back together) when ready.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,552
Reaction score
0
That'll work as well, but isn't nearly as fun as having R2 bounce up and try to hit you in the ....
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Here's another way to separate a figure at the seams:

If you have a table-mounted vice, you can wrap the figure in a towel or old t-shirt. Then place the figure in the vice and crank it until it begins to squeeze the figure apart. You won't want to crank the vice too tightly, but it should allow the figure to start to separate at the seam. (You can then use a small screw driver, etc., to wedge the figure apart.

Ive tried this with GIJoe figures and it doesn't damage them, allowing you to reset the figure (and glue it back together) when ready.
I've done this with my custom G.I Joe's. I'm afraid of doing this technique because of the BS6 plastic is softer then Joe's. And will that cheap paint be Okay on these? I know on the Joe's I had to get hobby paint. I know some paint's caused the plastic to do weird things with the worst case scenario being the plastic melting or staying sticky.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,552
Reaction score
0
Enamel is what causes those problems. Acrylic paint, cheap or expensive, will do the trick. I haven't been in the customs forum in forever so I don't know if he is still around, but look for posts from a dude named Chewie. He had arguably the best paint skills, and he did it with the cheap paints. I used those on all my customs, even GI Joe, and never had a problem.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Enamel is what causes those problems. Acrylic paint, cheap or expensive, will do the trick. I haven't been in the customs forum in forever so I don't know if he is still around, but look for posts from a dude named Chewie. He had arguably the best paint skills, and he did it with the cheap paints. I used those on all my customs, even GI Joe, and never had a problem.
Cool will do! I never used the cheaper paint on my Joe's because every one on Hisstank.com forum's swore they would ruin my Joe's so I never gave it a shot and any time I ever asked a question on there they always had to be rude or be a smart ***** on there so I did what they had sworn by. But I will defiantly try what your saying if it help's keep the cost down I'm up for it. At $20 a pop on a figure plus that kind of paint they used it could get out of control real fast. Thank you for the head's up! It's appreciate it a lot!
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
I did mine this way over the weekend and it makes a world of a difference
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
2,431
Reaction score
0
The pencil lead weathering doesn't look have bad.

Still debating whether to go with a really light grey wash or to try this method...
 
Joined
Dec 12, 2001
Messages
1,201
Reaction score
0
Yo Billy_Ray, a question about the lead pencil line weathering method; How do you prevent the detailing from being smudged away from future handling? Just wondering how durable it is?
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
1,182
Reaction score
0
Yo Billy_Ray, a question about the lead pencil line weathering method; How do you prevent the detailing from being smudged away from future handling? Just wondering how durable it is?
But the smudging would give you extra handling.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,552
Reaction score
0
Yo Billy_Ray, a question about the lead pencil line weathering method; How do you prevent the detailing from being smudged away from future handling? Just wondering how durable it is?
Don't handle it too much, and don't rub it while you are handling it. Prevents hairy palms and going blind as well. :whistling:
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
2,702
Reaction score
0
Doesn't matter if it rubs off - the 'grime' in the grooves won't, which is all that matters.
 
Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Messages
855
Reaction score
0
I just finished a few Black Series customs, I saw you guys were talking about astromechs so I thought I'd share a few things I learned making this R2-Q2.



Most of the joints and points of contact on the larger figures have sufficient clearence to make paint scuffing less of a concern than with the small figures.

One thing the works a lot better than the pencil trick is using Copic Multiliners. They are $2.
I suggest the .3 size in Grey. You want subtle & consistent - using a black marker or pushing too hard with a pencil produces spotty lines or lines that are too dark.


For larger gaps or special weathing effects if you don't know how to drybrush or use washes there are also Copic Ciao markers for $3
The real trick is get a CLEAR BLENDING marker to go with your grey or brown so you can make subtle effects that fade like airbrushing.


Those are a couple of great tools for if you want something simple to get started. Like most things there are going to be cheaper versions - I would NOT go cheaper on these. I use these specifically and $2-3 is an awesome price. Don't cheap out on these but also don't overpay for pricier similar products. I've tried everything from .99 cent to $10 specialty pens and these are the best Ive used for customizing. They really save you the headache of painting panel lines (although I still have to paint or use a wash for some).

The Black Series six inch R2 has front opening panels that seem to be made from a different plastic than the rest of the body - not a big deal but just be weary of that and don't glob on paint when it slides around on the harder smoother surface. You want to use acrylic paint - I wouldn't use craft store paint/Apple Barrel etc BUT I know some people who do and get fantastic results so that's up to you. The thing about them is the pigment seems to be clumpier and they will chip. I like model paints because they are super smooth and go on nice and thin but vibrant.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
I just finished a few Black Series customs, I saw you guys were talking about astromechs so I thought I'd share a few things I learned making this R2-Q2.



Most of the joints and points of contact on the larger figures have sufficient clearence to make paint scuffing less of a concern than with the small figures.

One thing the works a lot better than the pencil trick is using Copic Multiliners. They are $2.
I suggest the .3 size in Grey. You want subtle & consistent - using a black marker or pushing too hard with a pencil produces spotty lines or lines that are too dark.


For larger gaps or special weathing effects if you don't know how to drybrush or use washes there are also Copic Ciao markers for $3
The real trick is get a CLEAR BLENDING marker to go with your grey or brown so you can make subtle effects that fade like airbrushing.


Those are a couple of great tools for if you want something simple to get started. Like most things there are going to be cheaper versions - I would NOT go cheaper on these. I use these specifically and $2-3 is an awesome price. Don't cheap out on these but also don't overpay for pricier similar products. I've tried everything from .99 cent to $10 specialty pens and these are the best Ive used for customizing. They really save you the headache of painting panel lines (although I still have to paint or use a wash for some).

The Black Series six inch R2 has front opening panels that seem to be made from a different plastic than the rest of the body - not a big deal but just be weary of that and don't glob on paint when it slides around on the harder smoother surface. You want to use acrylic paint - I wouldn't use craft store paint/Apple Barrel etc BUT I know some people who do and get fantastic results so that's up to you. The thing about them is the pigment seems to be clumpier and they will chip. I like model paints because they are super smooth and go on nice and thin but vibrant.
OMG!!! I have two ready to customize but haven't had time to pick up the paint! Thanks for the heads up will be doing these this week end! By the way look great!
 
Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Messages
855
Reaction score
0
I can't figure out how to edit my post...

But I thought Id add be sure if you use the Multiliners the size for this particular purpose is .3 not .03 which I only mention because the picture I provided was of a .03 and I didn't want to confuse anybody.

I've used a .05 but it stutters on the paint because the nib is so tiny. The .3 works great. Let it dry and it shouldn't smudge but it wont adhere to a painted surface perfectly either so if its not going in a recess then seal it.

Also about the smudging try using a thinned (with water) little bit of Mod Podge as a cheap acrylic seal or if you want Gloss use Future Floor Polish - hasbro figures are usually low semi-gloss to flat so don't overdo the Future. However it does look really good if your making a Stormtrooper. Perfect amount of gloss without being too much or too little.

 
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
151
Reaction score
0
Ok... new 6" Star Wars customs :awesome:. Here is an Aurra Sing I made to be compatible with the new 6" SW guys. I want a Darth Revan, too, but he's a little more challenging because of the costume. I want mostly original trilogy from Hasbro when it comes to this series, but there are a few characters beyond the original three movies that I like a lot. I put the work into Aurra Sing because she seems like a less likely choice for them to make, at least for a while, anyway.



 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Thanks, Sparkey. I definitely tried to make her as accurate as possible using existing parts, and modifying things when I can.
Was the part's used from Marvel figure's? And I'm assuming you made a head cast? If you ever made any extras to sell Id buy one :whistling:
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
151
Reaction score
0
Was the part's used from Marvel figure's? And I'm assuming you made a head cast? If you ever made any extras to sell Id buy one :whistling:
Lol, the rolling eyes and whistling smilies make me unable to determine if you're serious or not. But, yeah, some Marvel Legends were used to create her. It's actually mostly a DC Universe Classics figure. I have not actually made a casting of the head. I'm not sure if it would be a better idea to cast the head and hair as individual parts or not. Heh, I'd love to produce one or more of them if it's the right amount of money for the work involved, but I will probably just make the one I show in the photos.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
3,407
Reaction score
2
I picked up an R2 over the weekend. I'm going to try a repaint. I've never done anything like this before so it should be interesting. I'm trying to decide which color to go with. I'm thinking maybe an R2-KT.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Lol, the rolling eyes and whistling smilies make me unable to determine if you're serious or not. But, yeah, some Marvel Legends were used to create her. It's actually mostly a DC Universe Classics figure. I have not actually made a casting of the head. I'm not sure if it would be a better idea to cast the head and hair as individual parts or not. Heh, I'd love to produce one or more of them if it's the right amount of money for the work involved, but I will probably just make the one I show in the photos.
I was being serious if I had that kind of skill Id make me one as well. She looks great thanks for showing her
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,552
Reaction score
0
I picked up an R2 over the weekend. I'm going to try a repaint. I've never done anything like this before so it should be interesting. I'm trying to decide which color to go with. I'm thinking maybe an R2-KT.
I think R2-KT might actually have a chance of being made by Hasbro. Might be best to go more obscure if you don't want to end up with one that Hasbro makes.
 
Joined
Sep 5, 2011
Messages
577
Reaction score
0
I picked up an R2 over the weekend. I'm going to try a repaint. I've never done anything like this before so it should be interesting. I'm trying to decide which color to go with. I'm thinking maybe an R2-KT.
R5D4! Or Red Threepoio as my wife calls him :D You can do it, just a little sculpy action to cone out his head.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
2,174
Reaction score
0
Ok... new 6" Star Wars customs :awesome:. Here is an Aurra Sing I made to be compatible with the new 6" SW guys. I want a Darth Revan, too, but he's a little more challenging because of the costume. I want mostly original trilogy from Hasbro when it comes to this series, but there are a few characters beyond the original three movies that I like a lot. I put the work into Aurra Sing because she seems like a less likely choice for them to make, at least for a while, anyway.



Way too awesome!!!! Excellent work, love the paint job and kicka55 facial expression!!!
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Well I just picked up my paint and an extra R2 to do my R2-Q5 custom wish me luck pics will be up later on tonight
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
1,010
Reaction score
0
Well I just picked up my paint and an extra R2 to do my R2-Q5 custom wish me luck pics will be up later on tonight
Good luck, or, May The .... ah, you see where this is going.

Anxious to see pics.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
122
Reaction score
0
Thanks guys I have the base coat on I'm loving how its turning out so far quick question for you guys I've looked all over the web at pics of R2-Q5 should his eye be Red or White? Starting the detail work now with Bronze and Silver. This is my first Star Wars custom and at $20 a figure I'm trying to give enough time to dry between coats
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
306
Reaction score
0
Looking forward to seeing it Sparkey! Hope it turns out great as I have never made a custom that I've been proud of. My painting skills suck. As for the "eye" red seems to stand out better.
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
5,552
Reaction score
0
Thanks guys I have the base coat on I'm loving how its turning out so far quick question for you guys I've looked all over the web at pics of R2-Q5 should his eye be Red or White? Starting the detail work now with Bronze and Silver. This is my first Star Wars custom and at $20 a figure I'm trying to give enough time to dry between coats
Very important to allow the paint to dry. Take your time and resist the urge to rush. As for astromechs in general, this link is invaluable. Astromechs - Astromech.net
 
Top