STROBEEONE’S CUSTOM WORK

This weekend I have ‘been on a tear’ doing some kitbashes & various customs. Right now I am at close to 30 figures done since Friday. This week is being dedicated to some picture taking. Until then I wanted to share an update to the first thing I posted in this thread. My modern vintage set of the original 12 figures.

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Updates include

Leia using the new sculpt. I gave her soft goods as well as some paint detail on the face. I also cut her boots off the legs, dyed the legs skin color, & then reattached the boots. Turned out PERFECT! Pics coming soon. I also did a post trash compactor dirty look, & a hologram look.

Vader using the recent ANH figure. I did a custom cape & also added soft goods over the shoulder that is part of his custom skirt.

Jawa using the Kenobi Teeka figure. Both the figure & cloak dyed a darker brown.

Stormtrooper was just updated with the newest release

Luke was updated with some minor paint deco.
 
Hey @Strobeeone, after you’ve dyed your figures, what do you do to “seal” the dye in and prevent weeping or leakage? I’ve been reading some people notice the parts will weep sometimes for up to a few weeks after they’ve been dyed. Any advice before I take the plunge?
 
Jimmii,

You're a motivation coach! I should do it!

Reminds me of the story Major Payne told about the Little Red Engine That Could...
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This made me laugh so hard that it popped out my eyes, blood and snot was drippin’ out my eye sockets. Think that stopped me from postin"????? Damn skippy. I just kept chuggin’ along.. “Chugga chugga chugga chugga chugga chugga chugga chugga. toot toot!”
 
Hey @Strobeeone, after you’ve dyed your figures, what do you do to “seal” the dye in and prevent weeping or leakage? I’ve been reading some people notice the parts will weep sometimes for up to a few weeks after they’ve been dyed. Any advice before I take the plunge?
Sorry for taking so long to post this reply. I actually started it weeks ago & had composed much of it in a reply & had to stop to do something. By the time I cane back to it, when I began typing I got an error message saying I had to refresh the page. When I did, everything I had typed disappeared. Nothing was saved by ‘auto save’. So now I am doing it in Word.


A couple of things that I have found that can contribute to bleeding after dyeing (sounds horrible in another context).

The amount of dye used is one. It really does not take a lot to get results. Of course darker base colors on figure parts might need more dye, but not much more. It is better to start with less dye & add more if needed.

The next is the temperature of the parts & the dye mix. The dye mix should be just below boiling. I usually let it get to where it is starting to, then turn the heat down where it is on the verge of. To raise the boiling point of the dye mix, a small bit of salt can be added. This allows the temperature to be raised without it boiling. I will usually do this when I am dyeing something to be black.
The figure parts (plastic) are going to take the dye best when they are heated. While the dye mix can heat the parts it also takes a bit (seconds) to do so. Some colors only take a few seconds to show. So if parts are put in the dye mix unheated, the seconds it takes to heat up, the dye will take on the surface but not fully penetrate the plastic. The better the plastic takes the dye, the less chance there is of it releasing it. So I will have a coffee mug of just boiled water that the ‘on deck’ parts (ones about to be dyed) will sit in for at least 30 seconds. They get heated & then go straight into the dye mix from there.

One thing related to this is the plastic being dyed. Hard plastics do not take dye that well. Soft plastics do, but there are some that have stronger surface tension. The main culprits are the soft plastics that have a shiny surface. Not because of paint, but because of the plastic mixture & the tooling being smooth. Those shiny surfaces have a stronger resistance even when heated. What helps in this case is to put a couple drops of vinegar in the dye mix. The vinegar is an acetic acid which will help the dye penetrate the surface.

After the parts are dyed they go through numerous rinses. I have a bunch of those plastic product containers (cool whip, cookie dough) that I use for rinsing the figure parts. I have them partially filled with cold water right next to the dye pot. When I remove the parts from the dye they go straight into one of the rinse bowls & I put all of a figures parts in the same bowl (unless there is more than one color).

I let the parts sit in the cold water for around 10 minutes & then pour out the colored water & refresh it. I do that a few times until the water remains clear. Then I will let the parts sit in it for a few minutes. A final rinse under running cold water I will work the joints. Then I let the parts sit to dry. I usually let them sit for a day & then will use a white cloth to see if there is any bleed or rub off. If there is I will let them sit longer. When there isn’t I will reassemble the figure (boil & pop) & then put them in ice water for a few minutes. Then let them dry again.

Hope this helps.
 

That is some fantastic work. I love what he did on the top to cover the turret hole.

I've been tempted to buy one and replicate Strobeeone's work, but then I laugh to myself and say "don't even try"
Almost impossible to replicate Strobeeone’s work, but not a bad thing to attempt it with on the cheap.

Awwww shucks. I really appreciate the kind words, but don’t let my work keep you from giving it a go.

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😁
 
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