Restoring/attaching bubble to card

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All,
In the last few months I was able about to pick up one of my grail pieces, though it was a bitter sweet moment as the bubble had fallen off the card, along with some of the litho, due to extensive water damage. I'm now contemplating reattaching the bubble, and gluing down the lifted litho so that I can display it in the way originally intended. Two questions, what it the protocol or the view on doing such a thing and is it frowned upon? And what would be the best method to restore the card and glue the bubble if I were to proceed?

Below is a picture of the figure. Note the gun still taped to the bubble.


Thanks
Brody
 
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In a nutshell, so long as whatever method you use can't later be misconstrued (intentionally or not) as an actual MOC if the item were to become 'available' (for whatever reason) then you're in the clear. I'd also recommend that you go the toploader method and forego any gluing of any kind.

While I know that many collectors are all "oh no, I'd never do that" and if they decided to sell/trade something they'd be forthcoming but there's the two classes of people that complicate this tremendously:
- The unscrupulous person who is just looking to make a quick buck by trying to pass merchandise off as still intact/legit. You may be upright but the person (or the one after that) may not be.
- The unknowing but caring person. Say something happens and you aren't in control of having to sell the item. The person who is will likely not even know about the altered state and would just be looking to do right and would inadvertently perpetuate a falsehood. The only practical counter to this is a thorough detailed inventory/database but even then that still introduces the possibility of the first bullet all over again.
So to avoid the catch-22, don't glue it.
 
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I know its generally frowned upon in vintage star wars, but in other toylines i see it more that people reglue a bubble to make it display Nice in their collection.
I like the toploader idea, but if you also want to display it in an acrylic case with the rest of your collection for example, then it doesnt work as the toploader makes it to wide to fit in an acrylic case.

Also considering the fact he might be honest and sell it as a reseal in the future for some reason and the next Guy tries to make a quick Buck by flipping it as a genuine one, this can also happen when you dont glue it, if the next person who gets it in their hands is a scammer who wants to use it to make a quick Buck, then he will glue it on and will try to make the cleanest job as possible, so it might fool someone.

I think you should do whatever you feel with it. Its not like opening a mint original carded figure....
 
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Thanks guys,
i like this top-loader idea. In fact I think what I'll try and do is expand on that idea and get an acrylic case manufactured to do this exact thing. I'd prefer to hold off on restoring it at all unless I have no other choice. To address the issue of it being passed off as MOC, there is that much extensive damage to it that even if the bubble was re-glued, it would be completely visible, but I guess that may be beside the point.

Will update ate once I have tried my first solution. Thanks for your contributions.

Brody
 
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Something you might be able to do and still use a non-custom acrylic case is do some heavy customization on the top loader to where it only goes up so high on the card so the top can fit in the slot at the top of the acrylic case and if you watch the width of the top plate you can definitely get it into the sides. A bonus is by trimming the width to size you'll get around the issue where the thicker edges of the top loader may not fit in the case slots on the sides. Since the bottom of the case doesn't have any slots you could just have the opening of the top loader at the top of the card which should then give the best of both worlds.
 
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Art convecervation use rice glue to attach artworks to carton. This can easily be removed without damage to the art work on a later point.
 
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Rice glue is amenable to working with materials whose chemical composition is paper, not when one of the materials is plastic. Whatever method is used, it will not be reversible in this particular case as there will be paper loss on the area where the adhesive bonds the blister wall to the cardback.

My advice would be to use the top loader method. It displays well, and will not open the can of worms associated to any attempt to reseal the blister.
 
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I have never tried this, but someone has mentioned this method on TIG.

Get a toploader and cut it down the sides splitting the front and back into two sheets. Cut one sheet just the same as you would have for the above mend so it sits snugly around the bubble. Then with just the one cut sheet on the bubble and cardback slide it into an acrylic case. The sides of the Toploader sheet may need some trimming but the thickness of the cardback with the single side of the Toploader slid into place. Again I have never tried this so not sure and don't collect carded figures or cases so not sure it will work, but I have read this before.
 
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I am not interested in this proposed top loader method at all.

Can someone recommend an ideal material/adhesive for re-attaching a loose bubble back on to a mint card? Thanks in advance for any feedback!
 
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