Rebel Soldier (Echo Base Battle Gear) 4- Pack

I just tried it and they’ll swap. It’s definitely close enough.
 
Thanks for the tip. But would you dilute the dye or not? And just let the part/s soak in the sol'n?
No problem. There is a little more to it than just letting the parts soak, but nothing to difficult.
I took some pics for a basic how to. I unfortunately will be using the carded version of this figure.
My 4 pack order was supposed to arrive yesterday & shows delivered, but FEDEX never came by my house.
I was out front working on my car when it said it was delivered. This is the third package in the last 5-6 weeks from Pulse that has happened. Pulse reshipped the first 2, but I am beyond FEDUP with FEDEX.

Anyways…

Dyeing plastic requires dye that is made for synthetic fabrics. RIT has a line specifically for this called the DYE MORE
line (😬). It also requires the dye mix to be heated. The plastic will take the dye much better when it is heated in the mix. The soft plastic parts take dye very easy, while hard plastic (some torsos) does not take dye as easy. The figures should be disassembled as much as possible, otherwise the dye will not easily cover the joint areas. Light colored plastic (AT-ST DRIVER, ADMIRAL ACKBAR) gives the best results, & can achieve just about any color. Dark colored plastics will only go darker, & cannot be lightened or achieve lots of colors. Any paint deco on the surfaces will interfere
with the dye, but can also work great with dye. A good example is the Imperial crests on the AT-ST driver. They will still be visible after dyeing.

So a couple of links that are extremely helpful providing info for dyeing…

DYEING USING STOVETOP METHOD

HOW TO MIX COLORS

COLOR FORMULAS

So the stovetop method I use is a cheap stainless steel sauce pot (I think 8”) that was less than $10 at WM.
It has a pour lip on one side which is extremely useful when pouring out dye mix when finished. I also have
a handled mesh strainer that is the same size as the pot (It was about $5). This is used for submerging the parts
in the heated water keeping them from contacting the bottom of the pot. So here is what I use…
The pot…
E65A5CDC-FFB9-40BF-8091-6AE63C2FA27F.jpeg

The strainer…
2ABAC3CE-4C47-4351-A664-DD87003EA707.jpeg

The strainer in the pot…
AD80D563-568E-4522-B11A-153C1434A409.jpeg

You will also want some disposable gloves so you don’t stain your fingers. I also cover my countertops with old bath towels. The last thing is a couple plastic containers like what cool whip or cookie dough comes in. These you will fill with cold water & use to transfer the parts from the dye pot.

So boil & pop to disassemble the figure. Here is how it breaks down (not as pretty as my other breakdown layouts)…
04CB6829-6C08-438F-BCF3-79EB25B71222.jpeg

As for what parts would be dyed, the feet are black & dye wouldn’t do much, the holster as well. The head is flesh colored plastic with the hat parts painted. So unless you want an alien skin trooper with weird hat colors, then the head
won’t be dyed. The gloves & vest can be if you want a different color. That leaves the arms, legs & pelvis section…

FE485CF3-34C3-4CE7-8EFD-C5A83F65A386.jpeg

I don’t know if they did the same thing with the 4 pack figures that they did with the carded version, but the pelvis piece is actually a light brown color similar to the vest, & they painted it the lighter cream color to match the legs. So the paint needs to be removed before dyeing. I use acetone to bring it right off (without damaging the plastic). Here is one painted & one after the paint is removed…
8C98719F-EE6A-4760-ADC5-B651794E9A0A.jpeg

The last prep to do is to swing the swivel joints to the end of the articulation range so that the area of the joint that is normally exposed is showing. What is normally shown would be shoulders, inner arms (at the elbow), backs of knees. You want those ares to get the most exposure in the dye. Here are the parts with swivel joints with the joint moved to the end of its range…
292A4579-5BC2-4E0A-A438-537D4AEF79CC.jpeg

The upper arm pieces (top) are right, but the lower arm & lower legs should be moved to the other end.

Now heat the water until it is close to boiling. After you start to see a lot of little bubbles forming…
B1F8031B-234F-485C-B78C-1C965955281A.jpeg

turn the heat down & add a small amount of dye. It does not take much.
A3E8098F-3320-4C48-987E-53D6FBC473D0.jpeg

If using other colors as well, then add them. Let it heat for a minute while stirring. I use plastic tongs that I grab the parts with to also stir. Once the mix has heated, place the parts in the strainer & lower them in to the mix. I will usually do a section like the legs/pelvis & then the arms afterwards. This helps with keeping the color consistent & not having to juggle to many pieces in the mix. You can see after a few seconds they start to change color…
67D4F0EF-9587-4A6C-A1E5-2FE48A622081.jpeg

Check them every 10-15 seconds (lift the strainer out) & once they are close to the amount of color, take them all out & swivel the joints to the opposite end of range. The first pic here shows how it looks after the first dip…
AD6148E1-922B-4D51-9394-24F1DDD90DA6.jpeg

the joint piece looks exactly how we want it. Until you swivel the joint to the opposite end of range to see…
4048E7C1-05D0-4D9F-9C1B-C4BCDFF7AE50.jpeg

This is the part of the joint that was not exposed, so the dye couldn’t get to it. After moving the joints for ALL of the pieces in this group, put them back in the strainer & dip again. Should not take long at all for that joint section to color.
Remove the pieces from the mix when they are ALMOST the color you want. Typically as the dye sets & dries, it darkens as well.CF692309-1210-4802-BA38-65C017606392.jpeg

I put them in my plastic container with cold water & then start the next section while these sit for a bit in the cold water.

Once all of my sections are done, I will further rinse the parts that sat, & then if they look the way I want, will lay them out to reassemble by finding the markings that are used to identify them. They will usually have a ‘R1 or R2 or L1 or L2‘ by the swivel joint, or around the end area where joint pegs insert. This marks if it is the right arm/leg or left arm/leg piece. Sometimes the markings are so small you need a magnifying glass to see them. Once they are arranged (like my breakdowns) I will boil & pop to reassemble. Once reassembled I put the figure in ice water to tighten & firm the plastic.

When I do dye sessions now, I will usually have figures torn down & grouped by the color I want to do. When I have a few that use the same color base, I will do them to get the most use out of the mix. Afterwards they can be put in other mixes, if needed.

So the results of this session with some additional colors done with a couple…

86109A7D-ED97-4E25-9E27-14E842E663F6.jpegFrom left to right, the first is pretty close to the unproduced figure’s look. Then I added some darker looks adding additional colors to the initial mix. The shininess is from the dye, but will be matted by a coat of dulcote after some weathering.

I also threw in the upper body of a Hoth Rebel Soldier & some Rebel Commando legs (or Prune Face) to get this result…
5B957B10-BCA5-4636-8C20-1EDE2F9BD7AF.jpeg
🤓

Class dismissed.
 
Anyone need a set of these at cost? PM me. Just asking tax and part of shipping. I'm basically asking half of what I paid on Pulse.
 
Well that's a bunch of crap. I waited for shopD to list it, had a g.c. to use but they never did. So I went w/ pulse, at least my mom asked if I needed or wanted any sw for Christmas and told me she'd get it for me. But still...oh well, shopD is bound to have a new droid 4pk that I can use the g.c. for
 
Well that's a bunch of crap. I waited for shopD to list it, had a g.c. to use but they never did. So I went w/ pulse, at least my mom asked if I needed or wanted any sw for Christmas and told me she'd get it for me. But still...oh well, shopD is bound to have a new droid 4pk that I can use the g.c. for
A new droid pack? For Andor?
 
Yeah, I’m cancelling my Modal Nodes order and never preordering these builder packs through Pulse again. $105 shipped for a pair on Pulse vs $90 shipped on SD, smh. I’ll bet the Nodes get listed on SD next year right after Pulse is finished shipping out their preorders and they’ll be $84.99 w/ free shipping.
 
^ I was thinking the same thing but since I ordered the rescue set at same time, I'd be paying 6.99 or so for shipping 1 item or for 2 regardless. So I placed it and will keep w/ pulse. But future 4 pks, unless there is an absolute pulse order I need, like a full unshared pulse excl., at a same time. I'll wait it out for shopD..although for my area pulse has had better shipping service than shopD that takes 2-3x in transit and not traveling too much further
 
Yeah, I’m cancelling my Modal Nodes order and never preordering these builder packs through Pulse again. $105 shipped for a pair on Pulse vs $90 shipped on SD, smh. I’ll bet the Nodes get listed on SD next year right after Pulse is finished shipping out their preorders and they’ll be $84.99 w/ free shipping.
Yeah, I went the cheap route with the Cantina Band- I bought five Figrin D'ans at the $10 Amazon sale price and used my old POTF2 instruments to supplement any that didn't come with Dan himself. I don't need the exact number of band members, so long as it looks like 'a band'. I really want a Cantina Playset now.
 
I'm a big fan of this set. The hat/goggles combo can definitely look a little bulky, but I actually prefer that aesthetically - makes it feel more layered. I let Hoth Luke borrower one and I like it a lot (albeit inaccurate with the open chinstrap).

1673649545152.png
 
Free shipping got me hooked for another set. The heads are well done, and it's a good figure. Funny to think $11/each is custom pricing now! But with some accessories, I think I can spread these guys around.
 
These guys are part of the Hasbro Pulse warehouse sale. 35% off for "Premium" members, 30% off for everyone else. I had no plans on picking up a second set of these, but the RFT 4 pack is also part of the sale and in stock. So I got one of each to do some head swapping and have even more variation. The only problem is the Hoth trooper heads are a bit tight on the RFT, and the RFT is a little loose on the Hoth body. I think for the purpose of display, they should all be fine though.
 
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Yeah for the price I'm certainly tempted but I really just don't need another set, I've got about eight now and the two main characters are covered so no real need other than extra head sculpts for customs. I think I've got more of these figures than the actual Hoth Troopers. lol
 
Yeah for the price I'm certainly tempted but I really just don't need another set, I've got about eight now and the two main characters are covered so no real need other than extra head sculpts for customs. I think I've got more of these figures than the actual Hoth Troopers. lol

They have ALL the 4 packs as part of the sale, with exception of the "Sold Out" Stormtroopers. Not only did I get a second Hoth pack, I picked up another RFT and a Shore Trooper pack as well. I didn't "NEED" any of these, but very hard to pass up troop builders for less than $30 a set.
 
I guess I'm just not into troop building like I used to be because they were very easy to pass up for me, even at that price. At that point I feel I'm just buying something simply because it's on sale and the illusion of saving Money make a person spend when they could actually save that $30 by not buying unneeded items. lol
It's like that whole "impulse section" at the store registers in a way.
 
I’ve found myself thinking the same thing lately. I could just “save” the entire cost of the thing.
 
Is there really a market for them at that price though? I get that Pulse Exclusives aren't available in all Countries but would those people pay almost $30 more for it plus shipping?
 
At that price it looks like they bought them retail off Pulse in the recent sale and are flipping them.
 
No problem. There is a little more to it than just letting the parts soak, but nothing to difficult.
I took some pics for a basic how to. I unfortunately will be using the carded version of this figure.
My 4 pack order was supposed to arrive yesterday & shows delivered, but FEDEX never came by my house.
I was out front working on my car when it said it was delivered. This is the third package in the last 5-6 weeks from Pulse that has happened. Pulse reshipped the first 2, but I am beyond FEDUP with FEDEX.

Anyways…

Dyeing plastic requires dye that is made for synthetic fabrics. RIT has a line specifically for this called the DYE MORE
line (😬). It also requires the dye mix to be heated. The plastic will take the dye much better when it is heated in the mix. The soft plastic parts take dye very easy, while hard plastic (some torsos) does not take dye as easy. The figures should be disassembled as much as possible, otherwise the dye will not easily cover the joint areas. Light colored plastic (AT-ST DRIVER, ADMIRAL ACKBAR) gives the best results, & can achieve just about any color. Dark colored plastics will only go darker, & cannot be lightened or achieve lots of colors. Any paint deco on the surfaces will interfere
with the dye, but can also work great with dye. A good example is the Imperial crests on the AT-ST driver. They will still be visible after dyeing.

So a couple of links that are extremely helpful providing info for dyeing…

DYEING USING STOVETOP METHOD

HOW TO MIX COLORS

COLOR FORMULAS

So the stovetop method I use is a cheap stainless steel sauce pot (I think 8”) that was less than $10 at WM.
It has a pour lip on one side which is extremely useful when pouring out dye mix when finished. I also have
a handled mesh strainer that is the same size as the pot (It was about $5). This is used for submerging the parts
in the heated water keeping them from contacting the bottom of the pot. So here is what I use…
The pot…
View attachment 444296

The strainer…
View attachment 444297

The strainer in the pot…
View attachment 444298

You will also want some disposable gloves so you don’t stain your fingers. I also cover my countertops with old bath towels. The last thing is a couple plastic containers like what cool whip or cookie dough comes in. These you will fill with cold water & use to transfer the parts from the dye pot.

So boil & pop to disassemble the figure. Here is how it breaks down (not as pretty as my other breakdown layouts)…
View attachment 444307

As for what parts would be dyed, the feet are black & dye wouldn’t do much, the holster as well. The head is flesh colored plastic with the hat parts painted. So unless you want an alien skin trooper with weird hat colors, then the head
won’t be dyed. The gloves & vest can be if you want a different color. That leaves the arms, legs & pelvis section…

View attachment 444308

I don’t know if they did the same thing with the 4 pack figures that they did with the carded version, but the pelvis piece is actually a light brown color similar to the vest, & they painted it the lighter cream color to match the legs. So the paint needs to be removed before dyeing. I use acetone to bring it right off (without damaging the plastic). Here is one painted & one after the paint is removed…
View attachment 444309

The last prep to do is to swing the swivel joints to the end of the articulation range so that the area of the joint that is normally exposed is showing. What is normally shown would be shoulders, inner arms (at the elbow), backs of knees. You want those ares to get the most exposure in the dye. Here are the parts with swivel joints with the joint moved to the end of its range…
View attachment 444310

The upper arm pieces (top) are right, but the lower arm & lower legs should be moved to the other end.

Now heat the water until it is close to boiling. After you start to see a lot of little bubbles forming…
View attachment 444316

turn the heat down & add a small amount of dye. It does not take much.
View attachment 444317

If using other colors as well, then add them. Let it heat for a minute while stirring. I use plastic tongs that I grab the parts with to also stir. Once the mix has heated, place the parts in the strainer & lower them in to the mix. I will usually do a section like the legs/pelvis & then the arms afterwards. This helps with keeping the color consistent & not having to juggle to many pieces in the mix. You can see after a few seconds they start to change color…
View attachment 444312

Check them every 10-15 seconds (lift the strainer out) & once they are close to the amount of color, take them all out & swivel the joints to the opposite end of range. The first pic here shows how it looks after the first dip…
View attachment 444314

the joint piece looks exactly how we want it. Until you swivel the joint to the opposite end of range to see…
View attachment 444313

This is the part of the joint that was not exposed, so the dye couldn’t get to it. After moving the joints for ALL of the pieces in this group, put them back in the strainer & dip again. Should not take long at all for that joint section to color.
Remove the pieces from the mix when they are ALMOST the color you want. Typically as the dye sets & dries, it darkens as well.View attachment 444315

I put them in my plastic container with cold water & then start the next section while these sit for a bit in the cold water.

Once all of my sections are done, I will further rinse the parts that sat, & then if they look the way I want, will lay them out to reassemble by finding the markings that are used to identify them. They will usually have a ‘R1 or R2 or L1 or L2‘ by the swivel joint, or around the end area where joint pegs insert. This marks if it is the right arm/leg or left arm/leg piece. Sometimes the markings are so small you need a magnifying glass to see them. Once they are arranged (like my breakdowns) I will boil & pop to reassemble. Once reassembled I put the figure in ice water to tighten & firm the plastic.

When I do dye sessions now, I will usually have figures torn down & grouped by the color I want to do. When I have a few that use the same color base, I will do them to get the most use out of the mix. Afterwards they can be put in other mixes, if needed.

So the results of this session with some additional colors done with a couple…

View attachment 444324From left to right, the first is pretty close to the unproduced figure’s look. Then I added some darker looks adding additional colors to the initial mix. The shininess is from the dye, but will be matted by a coat of dulcote after some weathering.

I also threw in the upper body of a Hoth Rebel Soldier & some Rebel Commando legs (or Prune Face) to get this result…
View attachment 444325
🤓

Class dismissed.

Just came across this (through link you posted) and it's extremely helpful, I've been interested in dye for a while.

Excellent tutorial, thanks for posting and taking the time to write it up (and provide the pics).
 
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