Guide to "futzing" link

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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

Akiata said:
I have a futzing question:
Is there a safe way to remove the paint off of the SS 1/6th head sculpts?

I think I need to teach myself casting otherwise...
Anyone? Anyone??
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

Most of Vader futzing guides are in Sideshow Freaks forum.
http://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums

But here's what I have on the helmet mod.

you need to take the helmet off the face mask, then cut the inside of the helmet.



cut the middle part (red circle) first a little bit, then try it on back to the face mask and see if it goes low enough.
do it again as necessary.
once cutting the middle part is not making the helmet goes lower, cut/shave the sides part marked in yellow circles.
note that shaving the sides part will also adjust the helmet to the left/right and front/back position.
so after each attempts, you'd better try the helmet back onto the face mask and check it it's low enough.

to flare the helmet, people say it works by putting it into boiled water for a minute. but i find it not working, so i put mine into boiling water (still on the stove) for about a minute.
use something like a pinset to hold it as it gets pretty hot - and do not let the helmet touch the pan as it might get too hot and melt.
then you can try to flare it out gently. once you think it's got enough flare, just put it in cold water so it sets.

WARNING: the flaring might damage the paint/color of the helmet. if this happen you will need to polish and repaint it.
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

cruxz said:
Most of Vader futzing guides are in Sideshow Freaks forum.
http://www.sideshowcollectors.com/forums

But here's what I have on the helmet mod.

you need to take the helmet off the face mask, then cut the inside of the helmet.



cut the middle part (red circle) first a little bit, then try it on back to the face mask and see if it goes low enough.
do it again as necessary.
once cutting the middle part is not making the helmet goes lower, cut/shave the sides part marked in yellow circles.
note that shaving the sides part will also adjust the helmet to the left/right and front/back position.
so after each attempts, you'd better try the helmet back onto the face mask and check it it's low enough.

to flare the helmet, people say it works by putting it into boiled water for a minute. but i find it not working, so i put mine into boiling water (still on the stove) for about a minute.
use something like a pinset to hold it as it gets pretty hot - and do not let the helmet touch the pan as it might get too hot and melt.
then you can try to flare it out gently. once you think it's got enough flare, just put it in cold water so it sets.

WARNING: the flaring might damage the paint/color of the helmet. if this happen you will need to polish and repaint it.
Thanks for the info! Is the cutting a hard job? Is there solid plastic and is it easy to cut since it is a round helmet?
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

Also what did you use to cut it? Then superglue back on? Im thinking of trying this
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

I used a pen-type cutter for cutting/shaving.
The middle part is actually 'cuttable' - not that hard.
The sides you'll need to 'shave' it by bits.

You can use powerglue to glue it back on.
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

Is there a risk the clothes/softgoods might shrink after water treatment?
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

Herb said:
Is there a risk the clothes/softgoods might shrink after water treatment?
That has never happened to me.
 
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Re: Guide to \"futzing\" link

1/6th figure parts

toyanxiety.com
 
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As far as "boiling" the stormtrooper armor goes, it's pretty easy:

Boil some water (for the armor plastic, I found it actually had to be boiling to heat it enough to re-shape it, for softer plastic it usually doesn't need to be that hot)

Once the water is boiling, dip the armor into it for about 30 seconds or so. You may want to hold it with some tongs or something like that. Be careful not to get the straps that hold the back to the front in the water as they are much softer plastic.

Take out the armor and rehape it to the desired shape. You could use a naked body as a guide I suppose, but I just kind of eye balled mine.

At this point you can either hold it in place until it cools, or you can expedite the cooling process by holding it in your freezer.

I've used this method with numerous, warped, items. It works great for Hasbro 3 3/4 figures, weapons, ad accessories as well as ship parts (the long, pointy parts on the Naboo fighter and Naboo Queen's starship come to mind). I have also used it to remove 1/6 figure heads and reshape warped items like SS Bespin Luke's blaster. I have never had any mishaps yet.

Note...if you choose to boil water in the microwave, be extremely careful as it can sort of "explode" on you if you aren't careful.

As far as the SS Stormtrooper goes, I have boiled/reshaped the chest armor, secured the front armor to the back using velcro, and touched up the paint on the helmet (painted around the rims of the microphone pieces, touched up the "mouth", and fixed the "asian" eyes. I still need to give his armor a gloss coat, but here he is:

can the sandtrooper deluxe chest armor figure be boiled like this also?
 
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Yes they are the same. I did mine as soon as I got it. It's easy and if you need help pm me. I have few other pointers on the process.
 
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it went pretty easy, just have to be careful of the "straps" on the shoulders, I imagine they would shrivel up if they got into the water, I did it, took about 14sec and it looks a lot better

 
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Got this SSC Fett from a local re-seller.
The tube connecting to the right hand gauntlet was broken out of the box....
I didn't return it as I got a good price for it.
I didn't get it directly from Sideshow so I don't think the parts can be replaced.

Anyone have any idea on how to fix this?
Thanks in advance.

 
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it went pretty easy, just have to be careful of the "straps" on the shoulders, I imagine they would shrivel up if they got into the water, I did it, took about 14sec and it looks a lot better

You can use which makes the plastic softer without melting it.
Sorry to necro this old thread.
My experience with hot air / hot water and armour is that water gets the best uniform result in the shortest time. I have a proper variable temperature hot air gun for acrylic shaping and tbh I felt I was risking discolouration/bubbling with the amount of time it takes of hot air exposure to soften the plastic.

Immersing/suspending the part in hot water heats all of the part equally at the same time, to the same degree, therefore the re-shaping is easier to manage. Also, the part can easily be re-immersed.

I used boiling water in a pot on a stove and suspended the chest armour parts using a pair of plastic cooking tongs. (metal ones may mark the soft plastic) I have on occasion actually completely removed all elastic and velcro and even the plastic top straps and formed the parts seperately. (front and back chest, groin, etc) - I have also done this just by simply not immersing the plastic straps.... and results have been about the same. (always removed the eslatci though. Don't think it would like hot water too much)
I have always formed to the actual body. (stripped of undersuit,)

Please note, working with anything hot exposes you to risk of injury. This is very true of boiling water and hot plastic. I actually have a heavy pair of leather welding gloves that I use whenever doing "hot work" and these make handling the plastic parts when heated very much easier.
 
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Not sure how to delete this post!
 
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