A few simple customs

Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
WIPs

The majority of the pieces were printed in "strong, flexible" plastic (nylon), with some smaller detail pieces printed in "frosted extreme detail" plastic. Tamiya spray lacquers were used for paint, while two-part epoxies and superglue were used for assembly. The telescoping neck uses 3mm and 4mm aluminum tubing, and #2 countersunk machine screws were used on the treads.

Here are the top and bottom shots of the upper body after block sanding and painting. The hole starts at 4mm on the top, then narrows to 3mm about halfway down. The larger aluminum tubing is press-fit into the 4mm hole, while the 3mm hole provides the tension to keep the telescoping segment in position. In the next iteration, I'm planning to sandwich a rubber o-ring or washer between the upper and lower bodies to provide a little more tension on the tubing. If I can't find one small enough, I'll try to use a piece of rubber gasket material with an appropriately sized hole punched.





These are the neck components. The white cap on the longer piece of aluminum actually goes halfway through the tube and meets the top stem with the ball joint. They were epoxied into place. The neck base "ziggurat" was printed in "frosted extreme detail" plastic and epoxied onto the upper body.







The white cap on the bottom of the tube prevents the 3mm inner tubing from pulling out. When lowered, the cap rests against the "floor" of the recess in the lower body wedge.



This is the assembled neck. The telescoping segment can't be painted as it would be easily scratched. I tried using "Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black" (used to conceal scratches on firearms) to chemically color the tube, but the finish was too splotchy, so I went with bare aluminum instead.



The rolling wheels are held in place with upholstery pin axles. The axles were slid into position from the side, then the access holes were filled with epoxy. The 'droid actually rolls much better than I expected. :grin:



I designed conical holes in the treads and epoxied the machine screws into place. The flathead screws look better than the rounded buttonhead screws I used on earlier projects.





Some of the detail pieces printed in "frosted extreme detail" plastic. They were epoxied into place.



The lower body and the sides were designed as separate pieces to ease block-sanding. The thin rectangular blocks are basically referencing tabs.





The upper and lower bodies were epoxied into place.



Final test-fit before painting.



Thanks for looking!
 

Utinniii

Moderator
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
4,767
Reaction score
73
Location
Canada; less Hothy than people think!
That looks fantastic! That is pretty darn accurate.
I like how you made the raised ridge part of the body and not cables (like we suspected it might be). I don't think they were cables since the very front of the "cable" is actually taller than the rest. The above reference pics will show what I mean.
I like what you did with the back. The view we saw of it in a different scene was too blurry to make out.

I hope you put the cloud logo on it.

I was looking at the "crates" and realized that the droid has been heavily modified from them.
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks! You were a big help with the reference material. I built this one as part of a trade, so any hot-rodding detail work will be up to the new owner -- He's more than capable. :grin:
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
A few mild customs this time.



General Rieekan is based on a TAC General McQuarrie, with the Saga Rieekan head fitted and the pelvis and legs from a Hoth Han. Major Derlin is stock with the exception of the Hoth Han lower.

Basic prep included sanding the knee discs to prevent rubs, stripping factory paint (belt and holster) from the skirts, and cleaning all parts with Simple Green. I drilled small holes at the tops of the skirt seams, then cut the seams with an X-Acto and dressed the edges with sandpaper to increase range of motion. With any luck, the holes should prevent the cuts from traveling any further.

Next, I sprayed the disassembled arms, torso, skirt, and legs with Hi-Tech "Doeskin" vinyl dye (the same color I used for my Mon Cal officers). Testors "Leather" and "Steel" acrylic were used on the skirt details, and Tamiya "Pure Red" lacquer was used to spray the red chest pocket trim. I masked around the pocket flaps with standard blue tape, and used strips of 1/4" Testors masking tape to mask off the inner flaps -- It fit the sculpted lines on the pockets well.)

The plastic skirt is still too stiff for sitting, but the slits increase the leg range of motion a bit. The arm-obstructing holsters and undersized blasters remain incredibly lame, however. :rolleyes:



Comparisons to the originals. Derlin is a close match, but there are notable difference between the Rieekans. The original Rieekan seems to have been sculpted from a piece of Swiss cheese, so the color change is an improvement to me. Rieekan also loses the sculpted padding on his upper coat, but gains nine POA.

While posting this photo I noticed the doodads on Rieekan's gloves. Never noticed them before... Might have to splice them onto the new version.





I considered Dremeling sockets for ball-jointed shoulders. and the test mule didn't turn out too badly. IMO, the shoulders still look a little too awkward to justify the effort, not to mention the risk of royally screwing it up! There's plenty of "meat" in the Derlin torso to form the sockets, but I haven't found a set of arms that look right. The LC Agen Kolar arms below are the closest I've found but they're slightly undersized... Most other shoulders are too big, and make Derlin look as wide as a Mack truck. Might re-visit the arms one day...





Theron Nett is a TBS Dutch body with a TVC Naboo Guard's head (with a dab of Green Stuff inside) and a TVC Wedge helmet with Stan's waterslide decals and Testors Dullcote added. Thanks again for posting the decals, Stan; awesome work! This is Stan's download link at the Shipyards:

http://www.imperialshipyards.net/SMF/index.php?topic=9711.75





And last, completely unrelated to anything whatsoever, is a Duros pilot I slapped together using a comic pack Hobbie body and a helmet from a random fodder lot. Wasn't going to use the body for anything else and didn't have extra Duros hands, so what the heck. :grin:



Thanks for looking!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Picked up a complete TAC Y-wing at Frank and Son last weekend and decided to mod it to accept BAD heads. First, I pulled the R5 head off by hand then used nail clippers, a Dremel with sanding discs, and sandpaper to remove the clips and center post from the ship:



Next, I cracked open a BAD astromech body (somehow I ended up with a lot of the LC white and orange ones...) and removed the head socket. I sanded away the horizontal retaining lip, then sanded the bottom until I had the right depth:



Bottom view:



I used two-part plastic bond epoxy to attach the socket to the body. For added strength, I sank a brass 1-72 x 3/8 machine screw through the socket hole and bolted it from underneath. I hope this will be strong enough, but if it loosens up over time I'll add small machine screws threaded in from underneath.



Now the only head that won't fit is the original R5... For now. Fortunately, the Disney BAD head is pretty close if I want to go for the original look.



But the added flexibility is nice.





Thanks for looking!
 

kk1

Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
1,887
Reaction score
0
Great idea! Really wish we would have got a more accurate Y-wing before Hasbro gave up on vehicles :/
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2017
Messages
998
Reaction score
0
Location
Jedi Praxeum
Hey I printed your model out and painted one white and left one flat black.



Thanks for making that model too. :{J
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Finished a few new ones - Some fairly involved, others not so much.



Fozec:

Torso, lower body, "skirt," and shoulder armor - TVC Sandstorm Lando
Arms, hands - LC comic pack Talon Karrde
Bracers - MU Black Widow
Head - Custom cast, paint by Glassman Customs

Shirtless Guy ("SG"):

Torso, "skirt," hands, helmet, shoulder and forearm armor - TVC Sandstorm Lando
Arms - LC Luke from Lumiya comic pack
Legs - TVC Weequay Hunter
Head - SOTDS Hoth Rebel Trooper

Lots of sanding with these two, mainly smoothing the torsos. I sprayed Fozec's torso and arms with Meltonian "Chocolate" vinyl dye, and brush-painted SG's torso to match the arms and head. The waist wraps/"skirts" were sprayed with Hi-Tech "Dark Red," then the chest straps and gunbelts were repainted with Testors "Burnt Umber." Next, I cut the shoulder and forearm armor pieces from the donors, and sanded them until they were thin enough to use on the new arms. Armor pieces were painted with Testors "Aluminum." SG got the forearm pieces, while Fozec has bracers made from sanded-down MU Black Widow stingers. (I'm in the process of fitting forearm pieces from a pair of the older swivel-elbow Landos to replace the bracers.) Before supergluing the armor in place, I glued thin strips of brown Cricut vinyl around the shoulders and forearms to serve as straps. For SG's helmet, I cut the mask off of Lando's helmet and sanded the "teeth" along the bottom edge -- They're not all the same size, but they are symmetrical from side-to-side. The cloth is from a TPM "Naboo Accessory" pack Jedi robe. SG's legs were dyed with Hi-Tech "Tan."

Before gluing the armor pieces on, I marked their locations with masking tape to ensure consistent placement. Still botched one - Had to remove it by "sawing" it loose with dental floss. Got it on the second try. :grin: Might re-paint the armor to look like tarnished brass later... Still need to prep and sand Fozec's ankles, too.



Shoulder up/down range of motion is limited by the armor plates. I can slightly "tuck" the armor into the shoulder socket like Sandstorm Lando, but it's not worth popping the plates off and/or tearing the straps loose. The only way around this limitation that I can see would be to attach the armor with small elastic straps, but I'll leave that for someone else to tackle.



 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
On to some cantina patrons:



Braconnor Bakiska:

Body - LC concept Ki-Adi-Mundi
Hands - TVC Bom Vimdin
Hood - GI Joe POC Zartan
Head - Custom cast, paint by Glassman Customs

The body was dyed with Hi-Tech "Beige," the hands with Hi-Tech "Brown," and the hood with Hi-Tech "Light Brown." The belt was painted with Tamiya "Brown" and the boots were painted with Testors "Leather," then the hood and boots were given washes with Tamiya "Brown." The neck was painted with Testors "Skin Tone Shadow Tint," then dry-brushed with a mix of Testors "Skin Tone Warm Tint" and "Skin Tone Base Light" to roughly match the head's skin tones.

I've tried a variety of hoods and this is the best version that I've found so far - The headsculpt has a very large dome, so most hoods are too small. I'll be keeping an eye out for alternatives, though.





Reegesk the Ranat:

Body - TVC Luke Skywalker (lightsaber construction)
Hands - TBS Ponda Baba
Robe - TPM "Naboo Disguise" accessory pack Jedi robe
Head - Custom cast

The base body is untouched. I gave the hands a brown dry-brush, then sewed up the front of the robe. The robe was so tight that I had to boil and pop Luke's forearms then replace them after putting on the robe.

Also managed to scrounge another ROTLA Map room Indy figure and make another robe for Debnoli. I used a very fine Sharpie this time and the results were much better.

 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Last is a small batch of head swaps.



Really liking the 5 POA Hoth Leia headsculpt. Required a light Dremeling to fit and a hair touch-up with Testors "Burnt Umber." I got the headless body in a fodder lot intending to make a Bespin Escape Leia but the torso is too awkward without the vest, so...



Compared to the original. (I always keep an unmodified version of any stock figures that I mod.)





An SA Lt. Lepira (TAC head Dremeled to fit a LC Wedge body), Red Eight/Bren Quersey* (5 POA Poe Dameron head on a TBS Dutch Vander with a Dak Ralter helmet), and Red Nine/Nozzo Naytaan (TBS Dutch Vander with a Dak Ralter helmet - Laziest custom EVAR!).

IMO, Dameron's head looks more like this guy than Dameron.

*Screw the "New Canon."





Deak and Windy:

Don't know which is which, or if it even matters. I just get a kick out of Antares' expression.

Left is a Resurgence Luke torso with the lower body from a TBS Ceremony Luke dyed Hi-Tech "Brown" with Testors "Leather" boots. Head is from a LC Antares Draco.
Right is a TAC Luke torso and head with the lower body from a TVC Peasant Disguise Anakin.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
1,913
Reaction score
4
This thread is so loaded with goodness! I haven't posted in a while, but you have provided me with some reasons to get back on Rebelscum. So many well done figures, just awesome!
 

kk1

Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
1,887
Reaction score
0
Awesome stuff, thought the VC Leia head was very good until I saw your swap with the 5poa one. Hmmm I think the new one needs some make-up. Really like the pilots too. Is Braconner just "artistic liscense"? I take it you weren't going for screen accuracy.
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks. Generally, I go for as much accuracy as I can without sculpting. Sometimes I'll add a holster if it makes the figure more fun.

Braconnor's hood is a work-in-progress placeholder. I've got a few different hoods in the fodder bin, and this is the only one that fits correctly. The scarf from the LC sandstorm Luke was my first choice, but it (and the other hoods I've tried) appeared to levitate over Braconnor's shoulders due to the sculpt's enormous cranium. I've got a few of the "Disguise" Jedi robes like the one I used for Reegesk, and the hood portion looks really good - Just not sure how to convert the robe into a shayla-type scarf like Braconnor appears to wear. Might have to try and expand my limited sewing abilities to solve this one. :hmm:

For the rest of the figure, all I could see in online reference pics was cream-colored shoulders and dark gloves. Other figure details are from the dark recesses of my fevered imagination. :grin:
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Spurred on by constructive criticism, I've decided that a plastic hood won't work for Braconnor Bakiska. This is a prototype that I fiddled around with today, using a piece of a Jedi robe and some floral wire sewn in to shape the hood opening. Still need to find a suitable fabric source. I like the look and texture of the "Disguise" Jedi robe, but the only way I could cut a scrap large enough was to use the rounded lower edge of the robe, which is why the front flaps are rounded along the outer edges. If I can find a larger piece of fabric, I'll be able to make the front flaps look better.





 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Finished some "blink-and-you-miss-'em" Jabba's Palace goons.

First is Geezum.



Torso, arms, hands: TVC Endor Rebel commando with neckpost from TVC Kithaba
Head, pelvis, legs: TVC Snaggletooth
Cartridge belt: TLC Jango Fett
Bandoleer: TBS Tusken Raider
Scarf: Misc. Jedi robe

I started by cutting the torso's neck flush with the shirt collar, and transplanting the neckpost from a TVC Kithaba figure using a headless #4 screw. After stripping all the factory paint from the lower body and prepping all the joints, I sprayed the body parts with VHT "satin white" dye. I re-painted the boots with Testors "leather," and gave everything a Testors "sand" wash. After trimming and sanding the holsters from Jango's belt, I sprayed it with VHT "satin black" and gave it a Testor's "burnt umber" drybrush. The scarf is a Jedi robe scrap with a dab of Liquid Stitch keeping it folded over around the neck. The bandoleer was more complex. The first attempt used five pouches cut from another Jango belt. I sanded a groove into the back of the piece, and superglued it to a leather strip from Michael's. (Only needed about three inches of leather, ended up with eight yards. But I digress. :p) It looked okay, but the pouches were too small. I eventually carved/sanded the pouches from the lower torso of a TBS Tusken Raider and repeated the process before painting the pouches with Testors "leather."

A cool feature of the leather strap is that after wetting it and letting it dry, it molds to contours very well.



This is the original bandoleer showing the sanded groove and the strap's joining point.



Next is the H'nemthe from Jabba's palace.



Body, head, hands: TAC M'iiyoom Onith
Arms: TVC Han Solo (Target three-pack)
Belt: TLC Jango Fett
Vest: TBS Jyn Erso

As you might expect, the robe was the hardest part of making this custom. Thanks to Stan for telling me about this fabric source: Thin striped doll clothes fabric (Hope it's okay to link an eBay store - If not, Mods please delete.) The body is stock, with the exception of swapping in the Han arms to replace the swivel elbows. The original hand pegs were a little too small and received some passes with teflon tape.

Obviously, I took some liberties with this figure. I left one of Jango's holsters attached for a bit of play value. In addition, I left off the vest's shoulder flaps and didn't cut the ends of the sleeves. It would have been easy to glue on some flaps using flexible vinyl as a "hinge" but since the robe and vest are already a tight fit, there might be durability issues caused by moving the arms. Like always, it's a trade-off between accuracy and playability. Lastly, the sleeve ends should be contoured and not straight. This was an OCD-type thing with me. I like my sleeves the way I like my psyche - Neat and orderly, not frayed and unraveling. :grin:



Last is Leslomy Tacema, aka Jabba's Duro.



Head, hands: POTJ Ellors Madak
Torso: TBS Ceremony Luke
Pelvis, upper legs: TBS General Lando
Lower legs: TVC Bespin Luke
Upper arms: comic pack Prince Xizor
Lower arms: TVC Weequay Hunter
Vest: TAC Tosche Station Biggs
Belt: TBS lightsaber construction Luke

This is the most discombobulated figure I've ever assembled. It started as a simple concept: (1) Put a dress on a Daultay Dofine figure, (2) Swap head and hands, (3) Profit! Unfortunately, the torso details didn't work very well with the robe and belt. Hmmm... General Lando might work, his waist has a sculpted recess that fits the robe and belt perfectly! However, the sculpting of the torso prevented the arms from even approaching a normal position with the robe and vest in place. So I used a torso already designed for an overlay. The Luke torso mated to the Lando pelvis perfectly, but still needed to be sanded a bit for robe clearance. The thin Xizor shoulders give a little more clearance, and the Weequay wrists are large enough to match the hands. The original vest was cut and sanded from a POTJ Ponda Baba. It was nice and bulky, and resembled the flak jacket from the reference material below. Unfortunately, since it was sculpted for a swivel-shouldered barrel chest, it didn't work out here. Instead, I trimmed Bigg's vest and enlarged the arm holes, then dyed it with VHT black and painted the exterior with Testors "olive drab." The robe was sewn from a lycra nightshirt ($4 at Wal-Mart). The head was Dremeled to fit. To increase the range of motion, I also removed most of Luke's Adam's apple. The hands were fitted with superglued pegs cut from a KOTCS Russian soldier.

This was the reference material I used. Everyone's seen this guy who was originally thought to be an Endor rebel, but was actually one of Jabba's crew. Instead of the source of confusion camoflaged coat, I went with this instead.



If you squint and turn your head just right, it looks like he's wearing a vest over something light-colored.



Patiently waiting for February 2019:



At the risk of sounding like a shill, I also wanted to pass along info about Winsor-Newton brush cleaner. If you need to remove paint from a figure, try this stuff. A four-ounce bottle is about $8 at Michael's or Joanne's, or $10 at Hobby Lobby. I'm awaiting a 16-ouncer from Amazon for $15.



For years, I've used denatured alcohol and Goof-Off to remove paint from figures. However, alcohol doesn't do much against factory paint, and Goof-Off attacks plastic very quickly. I've read about this brush cleaner and finally decided to try it. I really, really wish I hadn't waited so long. Here are my experiences with it in the last month or so:

- Removed factory paint about as well as Goof-Off, and has been much safer on plastic. I pour it into a small glass bowl and use a plastic AP brush to remove the paint. Much easier than the old "three swipes with a Goof-Off q-tip/Simple Green/rinse/repeat" method. I still try to work quickly, and wash parts thoroughly after stripping.
- Removed 90% of Sharpie marker stripes from a fabric robe. Hoping to remove more with more applications.
- Removed dried-but-still-tacky Rustoleum plastic-bonding spray paint from a rubbery Ponda Baba vest.
- Removed VHT vinyl dye. I can tell you from previous experience that VHT is no joke when it comes to removal. I've dissolved pieces with Goof-Off trying to strip VHT, but this stuff took it off with no problem.

It cleans brushes pretty well, too. :)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
419
Reaction score
0
Location
california
These are great! I just happen to have been working on these for awhile now. On Geezum I used the gentle giant bust up Snaggletooth. Wish there was a better sculpt of the duros head though.Working on Laudica and Jess now.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks! Think you could post a pic comparing the size of the Gentle Giant head to standard figures? I wanted to use the head from a POTJ Zutton but it was enormous. Jess and a couple of cantina gals are high up on my WIP list, but I'll have to farm out some of the work. I've determined that I simply can't paint eyes that I'm happy with. :wtf: <--- Typical result for me.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
1,913
Reaction score
4
Outstanding, Echo Six! Like an early Christmas present! That H'nemthe is the cream of the crop.
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks! Rather pleased with the final robe, but I wish I'd selected a lighter stripe pattern - The eBay source has a light blue stripe version that would probably look better. Might try another robe in the future. Geezum needs a slightly longer scarf, too.

I thought about making another robe for the Duro using a plain handkerchief as a fabric source, but the lycra's stretchability was the only way I could actually get it on the figure. :grin:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 15, 2017
Messages
1,522
Reaction score
67
I buy a lot of high-end customs, and would definitely buy yours! I really like Braconnor, Labria, and the Duro.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2002
Messages
908
Reaction score
0
Lee, this. Is Stan can give a shout on Facebook please , sir, excellent work as always .
 

kk1

Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
1,887
Reaction score
0
These are all very cool, but as the one who figured it out, I can guarantee Jabba's Duros is definitely wearing the Endor camouflage cloak. ;) (Though as always he's so far in the background ANY interpretation will work just fine.)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
I was waiting to post these until I had more stuff finished, but what the heck.

First is Thul Fain. He's an old fat guy with a dishrag on his head, allegedly seen in Jabba's Palace. Thrilling concept for an action figure, I know.



Body - LC Willrow Hood
Head - TVC Colonel Cracken
Robe - Map room Indiana Jones
Hands and feet - Darned if I can remember...

I wanted to dye the Willrow base brown, but didn't read the can and accidentally sprayed it with Hi-Tech "Burgundy" instead. :rolleyes: What can I say, the cap colors looked about the same. The neck is sculpted at a strange angle, so I sanded most of the Adam's apple away for Cracken's head to sit level. Cracken's hair got a Testors "Light Ghost Gray" drybrushing, followed by a Testors "Flat White" drybrushing and a blast with Dullcote. Willrow's neck received some blended Testors flesh tones.

The inner hooded "robe" is actually a sleeveless smock sewn from a white handkerchief. I drew the stripes with a brown extra-fine Sharpie, then dyed it with coffee. Here are the stripes being laid out:



I stitched the back of the inner robe and hood by hand, then hemmed it and formed the hood with strategically placed dollops of Liquid Stitch. The initial plan was to feed 26-gauge florists' wire into the handkerchief's hemmed edge and use that to form the hood. It looked good, but there was a Catch-22 -- If I ran the wire along the entire length of the inner robe, it would hinder movement. If I trimmed the wire, it would have quickly worn holes in the fabric.

I salvaged the outer robe from my first Debnoli custom by using Winsor-Newton brush cleaner and Rit color remover to take out all of the Sharpie ink stripes and splotches. Then the robe got a quick soak in Rit's Dye-More "Peacock Green" (the Dye-More is touted as specifically for synthetic material, for what that's worth). Because the robe is so big, I folded a couple of pleats in the back and tacked them in place with a few hand-stitches. Invisible from the outside, and easily removable if desired.

The belt is a thin strip cut from a Jedi robe.

The inner robe is slit down the middle in the back, just in case Jabba declares a Dance-off to the Death:



Reference:



Next is the third Dressellian commando, as seen in the Home One Death Star II attack briefing:



A simple formula, aided by serendipity.

Base figure - LC Major Panno
Cloak - TVC Orrimaarko

As a test, I sprayed Orrimaarko's cloak with VHT "Light Blue" dye. It came out stiff as cardboard, with dried dye crumbling to the touch. Since I'd had luck using the W-N brush cleaner to remove all kinds of stuff, I gave the cloak a brief soak. After about a minute, I removed it and washed/rinsed it thoroughly. This is the end result. Still a nice shade of blue, and the original airbrushed brown splotches are visible as darker patches. The texture is now more supple than the other two cloaks below.

Swift, silent, deadly.



Last and least is Merc Sunlet.



Body - LC Agen Kolar
Lower tunic - Comic pack Owen Lars
Head - Saga General Rieekan
Hands - TAC Obi-Wan

Merc is a WIP until I can generate the enthusiasm to swap in some arms with flared openings. The basic styling cues I picked out from the reference photos were (1) Older dude with a pot belly, and (2) Beige-ish outfit with darker brown inner tunic and dark belt. I stripped the original brown tunic, painted the new brown stripes, and painted the neck. Rieekan's head was Dremeled to fit, and his hair received a Testors "Light Ghost Gray" drybrushing (although it doesn't show very well in the photo). Agen's neck is a really long separate piece that extends deeply into Rieekan's head. The upshot is that the head is limited to swivel-only articulation.

Reference:


Thanks for looking!
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
1,913
Reaction score
4
As usual, I am blown away when you update. Great work on these, it's like looking at upcoming Hasbro releases where the figures are right up my collecting alley! That reference photo is great too as it shows Jenny in decent light as well as Merc. Also working up some stuff using the parts you'd sent, will post 'em soon, thank you again for that! Folks, this is a great customizer and an outstanding dude.
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thank you kindly, sir. Hope the parts serve you well - With luck, the Aurra you provided will eventually be placed into service. :grin:
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2009
Messages
2,412
Reaction score
0
Location
West Michigan
Finished a few new ones - Some fairly involved, others not so much.

Ive been google to find good resource images for these guys and your customs are fantastic. Great ideas here that I will probably use some ideas from.

I did want to point out one thing though. It does appear that USG, has a face scarf per the below image. As its the same actor apparently that portrayed Taym Dren-garen (per the guy's kid posting on his character profile) that would make sense. This was a revelation to me as well, and only really noticeable because this image came from the Project83 4K ROTJ rip.

 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks for the compliments! I hope that you found something in the write-up useful. Shouldn't be much of a problem updating to the additional scarf, just need to find a suitable fabric. (I've actually got a pvc GI Joe facemask in the fodder bin, but it doesn't fit SG at all.) Thinking the soft goods lower tunic from a Padawan Obi-Wan or similar might be a good donor. Your pic also makes it glaringly obvious that I should've sanded concave sides into the helmet's "bill." I seriously considered it, but after getting the "saw teeth" squared away I didn't want to risk screwing it up and starting over. Seems that it wouldn't be too difficult to mark the curves with modeler's masking tape and go to work... Slowly and carefully. When I'm feeling particularly froggy I'll jump on it. :grin:
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
610
Reaction score
5
Location
San Diego, CA
Fooling around with more of Jabba's goons and some cantina patrons.

First up is Gauron Nas Tal.



Head, feet, forearms (modified): Saga Legends Bossk
Torso, upper arms: TVC Bom Vimdin
Lower arms (modified): TBS Vizam
Pelvis, legs: TVC Endor Rebel Commando
Cape: ROTLA Monkey Man
Lower tunic: KOTCS Russian soldier

I decided to make this guy because of all the extra Bossk bits and Bom torsos I've accumulated. The Bossk head fits the neck post without modification, so that was one less thing. :grin: I sanded off the torso details and re-skinned it with Green Stuff, leaving a few "wrinkles" that I mashed in with rubber gloves. To make the turtleneck, I formed a cylinder of Green Stuff around Bom's raised collar, and pushed the cape into position to make a recess under the collar. Then I popped the head on and rolled it around, which pressed the Green Stuff down to kinda/sorta simulate the look I was going for. (Remember to keep the parts wet when dealing with Green Stuff so that they don't stick together.)

I wanted Gauron to look like he's wearing gloves, so I chose Vizam forearms because they matched the Bom shoulders fairly well, but narrowed down enough to "tuck" into the Bossk hands. After trimming the forearms, I superglued pegs carved/sanded from a KOTCS Russian solder, then drilled/Dremeled matching holes into the hands. I sanded most of the scaly texture off of the hands and added a Nintendo Gameboy to his left forearm. The gizmo was cut from the chest of a TAC concept Luke figure, contoured via sanding, and superglued into place.

Other than having prepped joints, the lower body is stock. I reversed the lower tunic from a KOTCS Russian soldier to better align with the torso peg. From the reference pic below Gauron's pants should have stripes too, but the Commando's leg sculpts are next-to-impossible to mask.

I sprayed the torso, tunic, and arms with Hi-Tech "Beige" dye. After masking the arm stripes, I sprayed them (many, many light "mist" coats to prevent bleeding) and the lower body with Meltonian "Green" dye and re-painted the lower legs with Tamiya "Flat Brown" acrylic. The hands were sprayed with Hi-Tech "Light Brown" and given a Testors "Leather" wash. I should've used a darker color because the hands are still too close of a color match to the head and feet. Will fix that at a later date. The Meltonian Green is very glossy so I gave everything a blast of Dullcote to tone it down a bit.

As a side note, I tried Testors, Tamiya, and Vallejo masking tape on the figures from this update. Testors is locally available, but has almost no tack. I only use it now to mark spacing. Tamiya is great for building dams when using Apoxie, but (in my experience) it didn't do much to prevent bleeding. Vallejo tape is the only thing I'll use for masking from here on.

The Jethro belt is a piece of 1/8" elastic dyed brown. After trimming, the tips were touched up with a Sharpie marker. The necklace chain is from Hobby Lobby, and the medallion is a 3D print from Shapeways. The medallion has a small indentation in the back, which I filled with JB Weld epoxy. I placed the ends of the chain in the epoxy and let it dry, then sanded the back flush, sprayed it with Tamiya gold lacquer, and painted the center with Testors "Insignia Red." I tried Tamiya "Clear Red" first, but didn't care for the results. The last step was to hit the medallion with Testors Gloss Clear.

I had planned to leave one end of the chain dangling below the medallion and attaching a smaller ornament to the end, but ultimately went with the simple look.

I stripped the factory paint from the cape using (what else) Winsor-Newton brush cleaner, then sprayed it with Hi-Tech "Burgundy" dye. I masked a 2mm strip around the robe's inner edge and sprayed it with VHT "Black" dye. After masking the diagonal lines on the black strip with 2mm masking tape, I dry-brushed the stripes with Folk Art "Copper" acrylic.

Finally, the eyes were repainted with Testors "Gloss Black."





"Swiggity swooty, I'm comin' for that booty!"



References:





Next is Arleil Schous.



Torso: TBS Ceremony Luke
Lower body/holster: TVC Bom Vimdin
Hands: TVC Ponda Baba
Head: Custom cast, thanks to your friend and mine!

Arleil should have a zipped-up jacket, but I couldn't figure out a better torso that wouldn't require sculpting. The body pieces are all stock with the exception of joint prep. The torso was sprayed with Hi-Tech "Flagstone," the jacket and sleeves with VHT "White," and the lower body with VHT "Dark Blue Satin." The boots were painted with Testors "Gloss Black." After some careful masking, the arm stripes were sprayed with VHT "Black." The head was sprayed with Tamiya "Black" lacquer, and the hands with VHT "Black" before getting dry-brushed with Testors "Ghost Gray." I dry-brushed the exposed flesh areas on the face and in the ears with Testors "Skin Tone Tint Base - Dark," then dry-brushed the teeth with Vallejo "Bone White." After investing in an illuminated stand-alone magnifying glass, I managed to dab on two red eyes with Testors "Insignia Red."

The belt is stock, and the blaster is from one of the old Saga Legends pack-in weapon crate assortments.





The last two are much, much simpler. Here's Beedo:



He's a Saga Legends Greedo with blue eyes and a TBS Toryn Farr vest. I did have... issues... with the vest.

As a surprise to no one, I prefer dyeing stuff versus painting. So, I bought Meltonian "Orange" dye and thought that would do it. Unfortunately, after letting the dye cure for a few days, I found that it had turned tacky. Never had this problem before - Don't know if I got a bad can, or if Meltonian doesn't work with the soft vest vinyl (although it is vinyl dye, so ???) I stripped the vest and gave it a shot with Testors "International Orange" acrylic. Wasn't working too well, and I suspect it would've rubbed off like crazy. Stripped it again, and tried Rit Dye-More "Apricot." This stuff soaked in very quickly and looked really good. However, after putting on the vest, the dye began leaching out into the figure at an incredible rate. If the dye only soaked into the parts under the vest it wouldn't have mattered, but I don't think it would have stopped there. Stripped it again, scrounged another torso, and took one more shot. I couldn't find any other orange dyes, so I bought a can of SEM '69 Z-28 "Hugger Orange" interior paint. Quite satisfied with the results.



Last and most basic is moisture farmer Ariq Joanson from the cantina.



Torso - Saga carbonite Han
Head, lower tunic, legs: Comic pack Fixer

The default recipe. The torso and lower tunic were sprayed with VHT "White" for a color match, then the belt was repainted with Testors "Leather" and "Aluminum," then given a Tamiya "Flat Brown" wash. Hoping to obtain a better head down the line...

Thanks for looking!
 
Last edited:
Top