A few simple customs

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Thanks Echo,

I started to ask for tips since you've "been there, done that" on this project but didn't want to trouble you, so I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this insight.

I can tell that you're very aware of the benefit of tips like this from someone who has done a project like this, it saves tremendous amounts of time and frustration, and really is appreciated.

Luckily my dad's a major tool guy and has all the recommended equipment. Your insight has moved this project from a "may do" to "I'm gonna try to have this done by week's end".

Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.
 
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Great work, all the way around. But the pics for the Y-Wing repairs just crack me up!!!
 
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More basic repaints with a little boil-and-pop. Most of these were "inspired" (i.e., shamelessly copied) from others' ideas, so a big "Thanks!" to the originators.

First is the recipient of Luke's Force-assisted kick to the grille. He's a K-Mart AT-ST driver dyed with "Cappucino" Hi-Tech vinyl dye, then given a Testors acrylic "leather" wash and a blast with Dullcoat. His vest ("Light Brown" Hi-Tech) and helmet are from a GI Joe Cobra paratrooper and his blaster was donated by TVC Kithaba. As a side note, I overdid the wash (looked like a caramel apple at first) and had to clean him up a bit with a magic eraser sponge. Big improvement.



Re-dyes (Hi-Tech black; flatter than VHT) of the K-Mart scanning crewmen. I used small spheres (really, auto-censor?) of blue-tac pressed into patties to mask the Imperial shoulder emblems, then repainted the code cylinders.

The only issue here is that my particular psychosis is reflected by a compulsory "multiples of five" when dealing with army-builders... Gotta crank out three more of these guys, and with eight sphere joints per figure to prep, it'll take a little time to get them completed. :grin:



Added Yularen's hall-mate and re-painted his rank badge. This was the first time I was afraid that I'd Dremel a hole all the way through a new head -- The Yularen body has a fairly large neck-sphere and it took a lot of Dremeling to make it fit. I also added hands from a TBS Yavin Luke. The wrist pegs had to be trimmed slightly but they're a nice tight fit.



Ak-Rev received the pelvis and legs from a Hoth Han. "Cappucino" dye again, followed by a Tamiya "brown" wash. Testors "insignia red" and "leather" were used to color-match the boots.



Bespin Han with coat and arms from TVC Hoth Hangar Han. I had to crack the Hoth Han torso to remove the arms and tapered the shoulder disks to make installation easier. Instead of relying solely on an X-Acto to score and pry the torso apart, I used a pair of pliers with cushioned protective caps to gently squeeze the torso at different angles along the seams until it cracked open. Worked pretty well.



This was originally planned as Danz Borin, but I think he'll work better as one of the other Cantina spacers -- A less bulky body and a Rum Sleg helmet cast might make a better Danz. This guy's a TVC Oddball (Oddsphere?) with the harness (straps removed) and helmet from a 25th GI Joe Ace. I dyed the body with VHT white then gave it a wash with Testors light ghost grey.





I also replaced Djas Puhr's shortened Bom forearms/TIE gloves with regular Bom forearms and gloves dyed black. An improvement, especially with regards to how Djas holds his blasters.



Thanks for looking!
 
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These are looking amazing echo! Well done. I really enjoy looking at your custom thread. Most impressive !
 

kk1

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Great work, been eyeing that Cobra paratrooper for the same purpose oh and check out the Costumes book that just came out, that skiff guard's helmet has a lot more greeblies and stuff on it.
 
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One from the "meh" files... The Mos Eisley local. Fairly boring, but I got to try a few techniques for the first time.

Torso and arms: Resurgence Luke
Legs: TVC Endor Commando
Pelvis: Can't remember, might've been TVC Dr. Evazan (The Commando's pelvis was a little too long and extended past the tunic.)
Head: K-Mart AT-ST driver
Hands: K-Mart TVC Scanning crew
Hat: Saga Luke
Vest: POTJ Ponda Baba

Originally planned as an "easy" custom using a Resurgence Luke, floppy hat, and Han vest -- Then the issues began surfacing:

1) I couldn't bring myself to intentionally use the Resurgence Luke legs on a custom.

2) I couldn't find a Han vest that fit Luke's torso. I tried three versions and none of them were close. I even experimented with shaving and sanding the sides of an extra torso to make room for a vest but didn't have any luck. The POTJ Rebel Fleet Trooper's vest fit, but all the pouches made the local look too "Tommy Tactical." As a last resort, I trimmed a Ponda jacket and enlarged the sleeve holes.

The legs and hat were sprayed with Hi-Tech "tan," then given light oversprays with "Cappucino" and "Khaki," respectively. Spraying the legs at a downward angle created a nice wash effect. I painted the boots with Testors "leather" and dyed the vest with Hi-Tech "light brown," then the boots and vest were washed with Tamiya "brown." Finally, a light rubdown on the boots with a Magic Eraser sponge gave a "worn leather" appearance.



 
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JVM

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Great customs! Especially appreciate the detailed recipes - I've always wanted to customize and like to remember bits and pieces from them but haven't had the chance to do much besides paint a few bits. Excellent work.
 
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I finally finished my five black jumpsuited Imperial techs.



"Okay, I've pulled up the torque specs... For the neck bolt, it says 'Tighten it 'til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn.'"

Rycar Ryjerd is the upper torso from a TCW young Boba Fett and the lower body from TVC Padawan Anakin. I used a Han vest, gunbelt from TBS Yavin Luke, and a blaster from TBS Padme. VHT white and blue, Hi-Tech brown for the belt, and Testors "Insignia Red" and "Leather" for the details. Very pleased with how clean the red/blue masking line on the vest turned out.



With Djas Puhr for scale.



The gunbelt was a good fit, but there was a small gap. I put a thin ring of green stuff in the belt to remove the slack. After the green stuff cured, I sanded it flush with the bottom edge.



As usual, I took some creative license with the Mon Cal officers. The uniform color is Hi-Tech "Doeskin." I used Testors OD on the belts and badges instead of the mint green color that would be more correct; it just seemed a little more military to me. I also left the original shoes. Although I've seen uniforms that use different colored shoes for different ranks (black=officer, brown=CPO in the USN for example), I've never seen a situation where one rank uses Cousin Eddie's white loafers while the other wears sneakers.

But that's just me. :grin:

The Mon Cal on the left has the POTJ head and color-matched TVC arms. I considered using the POTJ arms too, but didn't like the fit. The Mon Cal on the right uses TVC parts with a gloss coat to help differentiate from Ackbar.

I should also mention to be careful when disassembling TVC Ackbar's arms. The upper forearm pieces get very rubbery in hot water, and I snapped a pair of pegs off without realizing it. Best results came from heating the bare forearms with a hair dryer while avoiding the upper forearms.



These two guys were a PITA. I thought I'd order a few KOTCS Russian soldiers from China, slap RFT caps on them and wire them up, then call it good. When they arrived, I found that for some reason, the torsos are cast in flesh color then painted (while the hands are cast in khaki and painted flesh color). The torsos had faded to the point there was a glaring difference between the rest of the figure parts.

So, complete re-paints (dyejobs, technically; Hi-Tech "Cappucino") were necessary. I sanded off the shoulder boards and right breast pockets, and extended uniform creases into the sanded areas to make them less obvious. The plastic used in the joint discs is much harder than in SW figures, which made prepping the joints more tedious. The grey pouches and left breast pocket gizmos were cut from the belt of the weird pre-posed Clone pilot that came with TVC gunship, and the wires were pulled from a USB cable. I left the copper wiring in place to help them hold their shapes. The headsets were pried out of a few TAC smuggler Hans. Then I used a pin vise to drill sockets in the heads for the headsets, as well as in the boxes and headsets for the wires. Super glue holds them in.

The last step for the Endor briefing technicians was to print up a few of the "eyeball" cap emblems. I experimented with a few different sizes, and found this was as big as I could go and still have them remain in place securely. After letting the decals dry, I sealed them (and the rest of the figures) with Testors dullcote.

*** If anyone wants some of these waterslide decals, let me know. I've got extras. ***





Re-vamped some of my spacers using TVC Oddball bodies. I'm calling the white suit Danz Borin, although I think he looks more like Matthew McConau**** (you have GOT to be kidding me, auto-censor) from "Interstellar." The helmet is from Rum Sleg, while the chest overlay is TBS Starkiller's armor with a collar epoxied on from a 25th GI Joe Ace harness. Silver spacer was dyed with VHT "satin silver," given a Testors "Steel' wash, and outfitted with a helmet and chest harness from another 25th GI Joe Ace.





Yellow spacer has a few paint rubs on his nose and chin from the helmet... Will have to find another head cast in flesh.



Back from scouting the universe to find planets capable of feeding the mighty Galactus.



My take on the POTJ-ish Vizam leg mod. Not visible in the photos, but I also color-matched the knees.





Minor touch-ups to Camie (hairline; Testors "Burnt Umber" is a perfect match) and Uncle Owen (Testors "Leather" on the shirt, and added TLC's Owen Lars robe). I have to say that IMHO, the comic pack Owen has one of the best likenesses out there.



"'Wormy?' I'm partial to 'Whiny,' myself."
 
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I can't believe that I've never posted in this thread. Your work is absolutely amazing - and as others have said, really inspiring. I especially like your full recipes as I may just have to appropriate some of these designs as well. ;)

I'm interested in your work with Hi-tech vinyl dye. I've never seen anyone use it on custom figures before and I may have to try it out myself at some point soon. Do you prefer it to more traditional acrylics? Does it hold up against paint rubs better?
 
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First, thanks for the kind words, everybody. :grin: Truth be told, most of my stuff is based off of others' ideas. I think Daigo-bah did the black jumpsuit Imperials and the Endor briefing techs first, and I seem to recall Stan posted the POTJ Vizam leg mod.

I'm interested in your work with Hi-tech vinyl dye. I've never seen anyone use it on custom figures before and I may have to try it out myself at some point soon. Do you prefer it to more traditional acrylics? Does it hold up against paint rubs better?
On the subject of spray dye, I love it and use it whenever possible. Mostly because I'm not very good with a brush. Here's a few pros, cons, and assorted general nonsense from my experiences.

Pros:

- Dye seems to be more durable than acrylic with respect to rubs. One of my first custom attempts was removing the casting marks from the forearm and painting the white elbow joint on a TBS Padme. After sanding the disc for clearance and finally getting a good paint match, I applied a couple of very thin coats of acrylic (not the cheap stuff, either). After giving it a few days to dry, I re-assembled the arm, and on the first move I scraped a chunk of paint off. The dye helps prevent that sort of thing, but it will still scrape with enough friction. I had to re-do both right elbows and right knees on the briefing technicians after finding out that sculpted details were causing scrapes.

- I have boiled and popped dyed pieces with no problem, but honestly, it makes me nervous to do it. I try to use the hair dryer when putting pieces back together.

- I haven't encountered any problems with reactions between the dyes and acrylics, various clearcoats, cured green stuff, or decal setting solution (yet).

- VHT seems to be tougher than Hi-Tech, but Hi-Tech has a larger color selection. Denatured alcohol does a very good job of stripping the Hi-Tech dye, but it won't even dent VHT after it cures. The only way I've found to remove VHT is by sanding. It looks like any chemical that would remove the VHT would probably eat the plastic, too.

- Excellent coverage. The best example I can give is my Yerka Mig figure. It only took two light coats of VHT to change the TBS Luke's black shirt to yellow. No priming, no muss, no fuss. And no brush marks. If you prep the joint discs properly (sand them to prevent rubs), you can use the dye on them, too.

Cons:

- Dye is expensive, and can be hard to find. I haven't tried the Dupli-Color stuff available at most parts stores, but from what I've been able to find it's not an actual dye. There is an auto detail supply store nearby that carries the Hi-Tech dye, and it costs about $10/can. I have to buy VHT through E-bay or Amazon, and with shipping (it's hazmat) one can costs around $15. On the other hand, a little goes a long way.

- Color selection is limited, and obviously you can't mix shades. These dyes are intended for auto upholstery and carpet, so there are a lot of earth tones and grays but fewer of the primary colors.

- Patience is required. Per the can, you can apply coats about every five minutes but if you find out later you missed a spot, or want to add an additional coat, you have to allow a week for the dye to cure first. It can be a drag when you're in a groove and have to hold off on reassembly for another week because you've had to re-do a scraping joint.

- I found that if you reassemble parts before they've had enough time to cure, the dye can cause the parts to stick together. When the color change isn't too drastic, I like to sand the concave joint areas with 2500 grit paper to remove any dye and reduce the chance for rubs.

- You need a ventilated workspace. The kitchen table won't work.

Hope this helps.
 
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Sorry if it's already been asked but what blasters does you Djas Puhr use? Are they from a clone wars figure?

Thanks
 
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Sorry if it's already been asked but what blasters does you Djas Puhr use? Are they from a clone wars figure?

Thanks
They're from a TCW Cad Bane, but I'm not sure which version... I think it was the one with Todo 360.
 
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I splurged on some new cans of vinyl dye. :)

First up is the Home One Ishi Tib contingent:



The reference photos were so hard to make out that I just went with color combos that I thought looked good. The robes and lower sashes were dyed with VHT "Light blue," "Dark blue," Hi-Tech "Red," and Hi-Tech "Khaki," respectively. The sashes and pouches were done with Testors model magic acrylic ("Euro Gray," "Insignia Red," "Flat White," and "Graugrun.")

Jabba's red mercenary was dyed with Hi-Tech "Dark Red" and given a black wash. His bandoliers were repainted with Tamiya "Flat Brown" and Testors "Steel," then the entire figure was given a blast with Dullcote. The five o'clock shadow was very lightly and gradually dry-brushed on, and it required many attempts before I felt okay with the look. I initially tried using a wash, but I couldn't prevent the paint from pooling in the deeper facial details. One small note of interest; I was able to spray a little dye into a paper cup and use it to dry-brush over a few excessive black wash spots.



Bane Malar's torso has an enormous neckpost and I didn't want to ream out Keyan's head to fit it, so I did a neckpost transplant using a TAC smuggler Han donor. I used a #2 stainless screw and cut the screwhead off with a Dremel. To get the correct angle with no gaps on the replacement neckpost, I ran it back and forth across a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and made frequent test fits.



Here's Ponda Baba with the head from a Gentle Giant bust. I had to remove a lot of material from the bottom edge of the head to bring it down low enough on the neck. With the jacket's standing collar hitting the bottom of the head, the up-down range of motion is non-existent.



Jabba's Aqualish goon is a comic pack Fixer with the POTF Ponda head and hands from a Saga Legends Plo Koon. What's one more hand variant with these guys?



Since there's finally a decently colored tall X-Wing pilot body available at retail, I used a few Dutch Vanders to update Red Leader and Biggs. Garven's head needed a dab of green stuff for a tight fit on the neckpost. When I get the chance to use Stan's awesome waterslide decals, I'll be adding Theron Nett to the mix.



This last bunch was just busywork. Three more Home One rebel briefing technicians, minus the electronic gear. They're basically stock with a few details (epaulets, pockets, canteens) removed via sanding.



Thanks for looking!
 

kk1

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I splurged on some new cans of vinyl dye. :)

First up is the Home One Ishi Tib contingent:



The reference photos were so hard to make out that I just went with color combos that I thought looked good. The robes and lower sashes were dyed with VHT "Light blue," "Dark blue," Hi-Tech "Red," and Hi-Tech "Khaki," respectively. The sashes and pouches were done with Testors model magic acrylic ("Euro Gray," "Insignia Red," "Flat White," and "Graugrun.")

Jabba's red mercenary was dyed with Hi-Tech "Dark Red" and given a black wash. His bandoliers were repainted with Tamiya "Flat Brown" and Testors "Steel," then the entire figure was given a blast with Dullcote. The five o'clock shadow was very lightly and gradually dry-brushed on, and it required many attempts before I felt okay with the look. I initially tried using a wash, but I couldn't prevent the paint from pooling in the deeper facial details. One small note of interest; I was able to spray a little dye into a paper cup and use it to dry-brush over a few excessive black wash spots.




Hmm thought I had a bigger pic of that elusive fourth one, but he's definitely in red not black

 
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kk1

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Since there's finally a decently colored tall X-Wing pilot body available at retail, I used a few Dutch Vanders to update Red Leader and Biggs. Garven's head needed a dab of green stuff for a tight fit on the neckpost. When I get the chance to use Stan's awesome waterslide decals, I'll be adding Theron Nett to the mix.

There needs to be a medium height pilot

 
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Man, love you work, everything is abosulely fantastic!!!
 
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Nice work. I like your solution for changing neck posts in lieu of reaming out the inside of heads.
 
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You do absolutely professional awesome work Echo_six! Very impressed. I just got finished reading the entire thread and spent an hour just staring at your creations. Now I have to get someone to do quality work like this on vintage style customs.
 
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Nice work.

Is the new gold leader using the same body as TBS Biggs ? I haven't seen one yet.

Thanks
 
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Is the new gold leader using the same body as TBS Biggs ? I haven't seen one yet.
Thanks. The orange color of Dutch's flightsuit looks much better to me, but they seem otherwise identical. The heads swap perfectly. As some people have noticed, there can be a very slight variance in the color between the torso and the limbs.
 
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Thanks, it's Wulf Yularen from the Death Star briefing set. It required a small dab of green stuff to fit the Fett neckpost.
 
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A few new ones and a re-hash. First is Jabba's "boomerang" sailbarge guard. Luke throws him from a sailbarge window, but like a bad penny he shows up moments later topside.



Head, hands: TVC Weequay skiff master
Torso: Comic pack Owen Lars
Arms, upper: TBS Vizam
Arms, lower: TVC Nikto skiff guard
Vest: Unknown old Han Solo
Lower tunic: LC Giran (reversed, thanks to Luke Sprywalker for thinking of using this part)
Pelvis: TAC Master Sev
Legs/feet: TVC Dr. Evazan

The torso was dyed with Hi-Tech (HT) "brown" then both the torso and Giran's tunic piece were dyed with HT "red." The torso's brown dyejob was to ensure the final red matched on both pieces; intially the beige torso was a noticeably lighter shade of red. Both pieces were then given a Tamiya "brown" wash, and dry-brushed with a 50/50 mix of Testors "insignia red" and "international orange." The belt pouches were painted with Testors "leather" and given a Testors "flat black" wash.

The vest and upper arms were dyed with HT "desert tan," and the remainder of the arms was dyed with HT "off-white." It took a little careful masking, but they turned out nicely. The vest and arms were then given a Testors "leather" wash. In retrospect, I should have used the entire Nikto arms, because after I'd already prepared these I found a photo showing the vest "sleeves" have double flaps like the Nikto. Oh, well.

The pelvis and legs were dyed with HT "flagstone" then given a Testors "flat black" wash. The boots were painted with Testors "flat black," then given a Tamiya "flat brown" wash.

The gunbelt was assembled from a sandtrooper rifle's sling, the hangers from a TAC Yavin Luke holster, and the actual holster from an unknown Han Solo gunbelt. I sanded a 1/8" lap joint for the sling (the seam is visible in the photo below), then superglued the hangers and holster. After the glue dried, I dyed the complete belt with HT "light brown" then gave it a Tamiya "flat brown" wash.

Once all the pieces were ready, I gave them a blast of Testors Dullcote.

The soft goods were sewn from, of all things, a pair of women's panties. (New panties, nothin' but the best!) The material is very thin and resists fraying extremely well. Due to evolving ideas and assorted goof-ups, the version here is my 24th and final attempt.

A few odds and ends:

-- I had to dremel the head to fit on Owen's neckpost, and added clearance under the jaw for the Adam's apple.
-- Giran's lower tunic is very thick on the flat part, and I had to dremel the underside to create enough clearance for the soft goods.
-- When installing the arms, I nearly lost [the rest of] my mind because Owen's shoulder sockets are so deep the arm posts were hitting each other. I had to trim one of the pegs to get both arms to fit. Usually I test-fit everything, but I took a shortcut and almost paid big-time.
-- I have replaced the silver blaster with a black one. :)





The first WIP photo below shows the canteen on Giran's belt that I removed by sanding to make clearance for a holster. The second photo is a shot of a soft-goods piece (not the final version) under construction. I used Liquid Stitch to secure the hem and sewed in folds before sewing the front and rear pieces together. As shown in the final WIP shot, I found that "sandwiching" areas to be sewn with straight pieces of posterboard helped me make straight stitch runs. I cropped out my hairy knuckles -- You're welcome.



Next is Shasa Tiel. Much more straightforward, but still a pain in the neck due to the funky shoulders. Like Yerka Mig earlier, the design of the shoulders required a lot of prep work to avoid paint (dye) rubs.

Just a note: The large black patches in the photos are shadows. The black wash is much more subdued. :grin:



Head, hands: POTJ Ishi Tib
Torso, arms: TAC Yavin Luke
Pelvis, legs: TVC Bom Vimdin
Feet: TVC Weequay skiff master

I cut the hands from the Ishi Tib and drilled holes for wrist pegs carved/sanded from a TAC smuggler Han. I have managed to cut and sand wrist pegs from the hand donor's forearms previously (eg: Baniss Keeg), but that can be problematic because the smallest X-acto cut that isn't sanded all the way out can grow into a large tear very quickly during test fitting. Supergluing a pair of donor pegs works very well if you have enough material to drill into.

The torso, lower arms, and lower body were dyed with HT "brown," then given a Testors "flat black" wash. The upper arms and jacket were dyed with HT "light brown," then given a Testors "leather" wash. The jacket stripes were painted with a 50/50 mix of Testors "leather" and "international orange." The boots were painted with Testors "leather," details were painted with Tamiya "copper," then the boots received a Tamiya "flat brown" wash.

I wracked my brain trying to think of a source for a pair of more accurate boots, but this is the best I can do for now.

Edited to add: The VC Naboo Pilot and Royal Guard's legs and feet aren't too far off, but the guards I have don't stand evenly. Might have to do some boil-and-pop to see if they can be made to work.



Here's a WIP shot of the hands.



Once again, Djas Puhr needed a tune-up. He always towered over other figures and I finally realized it was because the Bespin wing guard torso was longer than most torsos. Combining the wing guard upper and Bom Vimdin lower created an out-of-proportion giant that resembled Longcat. After working up the courage to boil-and-pop the greenstuff coated torso, I replaced the Bom lower body with a wing guard lower half (radical concept, huh?).





Next are the many faces of Mosep. The first is the stock Mosep with a dark wash. Next is the Jabba's palace version, basically a black dyejob with a white piece of elastic for a scarf held in place with the shoulder holster from an OTC General Lando (thanks to Jabbapalacespy for the idea). Last is Tawss Khaa.



Thanks for looking!
 
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These are awesome! Thanks for the breakdowns on how you made them, it gives me great inspiration to go off and do some myself.
 
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Only one this time. After declaring war on the world's supply of POTJ Ishi Tib figures for my Home One contingent and Shasa Tiel, I sacrificed yet another careless straggler by making Harc Seff. My original intent was to use up a few oddball pieces and create a figure without any painting. That plan didn't last long.

Head, hands -- POTJ Ishi Tib (The head required no mods to fit on the neckpost. Hands were fitted with pegs carved and sanded from yet another TAC smuggler Han.)
Torso, pelvis, upper legs -- KOTCS Russian soldier
Arms, upper -- TVC Bom Vimdin
Arms, lower -- TBS Vizam (pitted metallic texture on bracers removed via sanding)
Lower legs, feet -- Map room Indy
Plastic sash -- Trimmed from ROTLA Sallah's robe

I originally planned to use Vimdin arms, but decided to swap out the lowers for arms with exaggerated cuffs. I sanded off most details from the torso, because the buttons created a disturbing vertical wet t-shirt look under the robe. The torso and arms were dyed with High-Tec "Beige" and the legs were dyed with HT "Khaki." The red cords on the bracers and the cord around the sash were obtained from Michael's.

The robe was cut from a $2 pair of Wal-Mart baby pants. I couldn't find a pair of panties close to the correct color, and realized I was spending way too much time wandering around women's lingerie sections. :oops: I hemmed the side and bottom edges with Liquid Stitch, then sewed the sides together starting approximately halfway down the sides.





Thanks for looking!
 
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It's been a while but I finished three more.

First is Yoxgit.



Head: LC Ugnaught, gray version
Torso, belt: LC Imperial scanning tech
Arms, pelvis, legs: LC Bane Malar

Yoxgit is slightly taller than a standard Ugnaught, but I really wanted him to have a thinner build. Although I didn't add the slanted chest pockets, I thought the Imperial jumpsuit was fairly similar. I sprayed the torso, pelvis, and limbs with Hi-Tech "Red" vinyl dye and parts of the belt with VHT "Satin Silver" dye. The boots were painted with Tamiya "Flat Brown," with Testors "Leather" on the soles. The belt was slightly touched up with Testors "Flat Black."

For the head, I shaved and sanded until I had the "high and tight," then painted his hair with the same "Flat Brown" and "Leather" (dry-brushed highlights) used for the boots. The sanded parts of the head and the neck were painted with Testors "Skin Tone Warm Tint." I then used a Magic Sponge eraser to lightly rub the high points on the head to match the splotchy skin tone on the face. The head also required a small dab of green stuff to fit the neck post.

The black shoulder stripes are waterslide decals, and the blaster is from a TBS Vizam.





Next is Lirin Car'n.



Thankfully this one was fairly easy.

Body: LC Ben Kenobi (At least I think it was, I found it headless for $.25 in a local shop's parts bin)
Head, hands: POTF mail-away cantina band member

I Dremeled the head, and found the body has an articulated neck post which greatly improves the range of motion. The hands were drilled with small holes for pegs carved from the hands of a K-Mart TVC scanning crew Imperial Officer. Glad to have finally found a good use for those monstrosities.



Last is Gailid.



Man, this one tested my patience.

Torso, arms, pelvis, thighs: VSC Greedo
Lower legs, feet: TVC Quinlan Vos
Head, hands, neckpost: TAC Concept Luke
Cap: TVC Jango Fett

Another case of settling for a headsculpt that was barely passable. Val Kilmer, I mean Concept Luke, had an unruly "Freedom Rock" 'do that was as close as I could get to Gailid's look without sculpting. I sanded a recess into the sides and back of the head to allow the cap to "sink in," and re-painted the eyebrows and hair with Tamiya "Flat Brown." Like Yoxgit, I gave him Testors "Leather" drybrushed highlights. I originally conducted a neckpost transplant using a TAC Han neck, but the angle wasn't quite right, so I used the Concept Luke neck instead. Unfortunately, all the previous test fitting meant that a #2 screw wouldn't hold anymore, so I had to use a larger #4 screw instead. Not a big deal, but typical of the headaches this guy generated. While sanding the cap recess, I accidentally flattened out a small area on the back of the head, but using a red-hot dental pick tip, I was able to melt in a few hairlines and fix the mistake. I used a small brass bristle brush to clean the burnt plastic from the area before painting.

I cut and sanded the microphone from the cap, then added a couple of straps cut from Cricut vinyl. When I bought the vinyl, I didn't know it was self-adhesive so I had to use q-tips and denatured alcohol to remove the glue. After superglueing the straps in place, I dyed the cap with Hi-Tech "Tan" spray, painted the earmuffs with Testors "Flat Black," then gave the entire cap a wash with Tamiya "Flat Brown." The cap is not glued on, so I may add a chin strap at some point.

The body was dyed with VHT "Yellow" spray dye then given a Tamiya "Yellow green" wash. I found the VHT is incredibly tough on the PVC parts, but rather brittle on the plastic joint disks. I re-sanded the disks, painted them with Tamiya "Flat yellow," then lightly dry-brushed them with VHT sprayed into a can. I printed a small waterslide decal for the chest emblem/patch/whatever.

The belt was assembled from Greedo's belt sanded smooth, with the holster from a TAC Tosche Station Biggs and the right-side hanger/strap and buckle from a TVC Bespin Luke. After letting the super glue dry, I dyed the entire belt with Hi-Tech "Light Brown" then gave it a Tamiya "Flat Brown" wash. In an ideal world the holster would be mounted at around 10 or 11 o'clock, but I put it at 9 o'clock to permit full leg range of motion. Unfortunately, the holster prevents Gailid's left arm from assuming a "relaxed" arm-down position.

For some reason, I originally used hands from a TVC Dr. Evazan, with superglued pegs carved from Greedo's hands. When I finished, I just couldn't overlook how big the Dr.'s meathooks were, so I made another pair with the Concept Luke hands. They even match the skin tone on the Luke head... Sometimes, I just don't think things through all the way. :grin:

The final step was to give the boots a "Leather" wash and seal the figure with Testors Dullcote. Still need to find a Jabba's Palace blaster, though -- Using a stand-in for now.







Thanks for looking!
 
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It seems that when the "Like" button was removed the "Thanks" button went with it. I usually replied to comments with a "Thanks" unless someone had a question, or I wanted to make a specific response. To anyone who had commented in this thread and lost a "Thanks" from me, Thanks again. :grin:
 
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Just a pair of swivel head conversions.

First, a SA Hobbie Klivian snowspeeder pilot. Dremeled comic pack Hobbie's head and popped it onto an extra Janson body.



Second, a SA Eeth Koth. Koth is a LC Agen Kolar body with the soft goods from the LC Ben above, the Dremeled head from TPM Koth, and the robe from a Tatooine Disguise accessory set. I would've preferred a headsculpt with a neutral expression but this will do.





Thanks for looking!
 
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First is a treadwell droid repaint, really just an exercise in weaponized OCD. I sprayed the antennas and disassembled arms with VHT "Satin Silver" vinyl dye, then masked the head and arms before spraying sections with VHT "White." Krylon Maxx "White" and Tamiya "Red" lacquer was used for the base. I touched up the head with Testors "Flat Black," then gave the arms a wash with Tamiya "Flat Brown" and washed the base with Testors' "Sand" before sealing with Testors Dullcote.

I used DOT3 brake fluid (That's DOT3, NOT DOT4) to remove the factory paint from the arms and head. After soaking the pieces for a while, I washed them repeatedly with denatured alcohol and Simple Green before dying them.



Next is Jenny from the cantina. She's a Camie base dyed with Hi-Tech "Red," with the soft goods from a TVC Padawan Obi Wan and the head from a ROTLA Marion. I commissioned Glassman from Glassman Customs to paint Marion's head because the factory paint wasn't going to work out.



"Pardon me, Ma'am, but I believe you have my monkey."



While Glassman was fixing Marion, I also asked him to take a shot at the BS carbonite Han. Turns out there's a pretty good sculpt underneath the horrible factory paint apps.



AT-ST disguise Han is a K-Mart AT-ST driver with the head from a TVC Bespin Han. The head required a bit of greenstuff to fit the neckpost. The helmet was from a local shop's parts bin -- Thought it might have been Veers' but the paint looks a bit off. Not sure where it came from.



Debnoli is an Evolutions Jedi Master Luke body with a TVC Ric Olie head, the robe from a ROTLA map room Indy, and the belt from a TVC lightsaber construction Luke. I removed the lower tunic to make clearance for the belt. After sanding a new hairline, I painted Ric's eyebrows and remaining hair with Testors "Flat Black," then sealed the head with Dullcote. After adding the stripes I dyed the entire robe with coffee. I botched the robe stripes by using a Sharpie fine tip instead of an extra-fine. The robe's fabric leeched out the ink too fast in several spots, and I ended up with large brown spots. I'll try again when I track down another robe.



Shasa Tiel was updated with funky-fresh boots courtesy of a TVC Naboo guard. I sliced off the boots, drilled holes from the top, then sanded Bom Vimdin's shins into round pegs. It took a while, but I ended up with nice tight fits on both legs. (Forgot to take WIP shots.) The boot tops and the original feet were dyed with Hi-Tech "Red," then detailed with Testors "Leather" and given a Tamiya "Flat Brown" wash before sealing them with Dullcote. I used Loctite 602 glue to secure the pegs and boot tops.



Thanks for looking!
 
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Thanks Stan, much appreciated. I'm awed by how prolific a customizer you've become over the years, and always look forward to your updates. Sending a PM.
 
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This update is more pic-intensive than usual, so I'm breaking it up into four posts.

First is Dagobah training Luke.





Torso: TBS Dabogah Luke
Legs: TVC Bespin Luke
Head: TVC Dagobah landing Luke
Arms: LC Luke/Lumiya comic pack
Hands: TVC Sandstorm Lando

I kept putting this one off because I absolutely hate brush painting joints and, unsurprisingly, automotive vinyl dye doesn’t come in fleshtones. Go figure. Eventually I found a head/arms/hands combo that matched, so all I had to do was figure out how to join everything together.

The first order of business was swapping neck posts -- Due to the torso’s small neck post, the head would have sat too low even if I filled it with green stuff. I harvested a larger replacement from a BS Vizam and grafted it onto the neck using a headless #2 sheet metal screw. Tamiya “flat flesh” mixed with Testors “leather” was used for the neck.

Arms were easy. The large shoulder discs were tapered to ease assembly , and Lando’s right hand needed light sanding at the wrist to match the forearm contours. I also cleaned up casting lines on the arms with 1000 grit sandpaper, and went over them with a magic eraser sponge to reduce the plastic sheen. The wrist pegs were a bit too small, so they were wrapped with a few passes of plumber’s teflon tape.

Connecting the torso and pelvis was the toughest part. Here’s the unmodified Bespin Luke lower half.



After cutting and sanding away the upper part of the pelvis, the soft plastic socket for the upper torso ball joint came out.



I ordered a replacement square of hard plastic with a small hole dead center from Shapeways, then epoxied it into place with JB Weld plastic bonder. Using another headless #2 sheet metal screw, I attached the waist peg from a TVC K-Mart Imperial Officer pelvis to the replacement square. I would have preferred to sink the screw into the plastic “floor” of the square pelvis cavity, but there’s no space – The thigh swivels are directly underneath. The epoxy is very strong, so I don’t think there will be a durability issue unless I try to boil-and-pop the torso. Even if I did disassemble the figure for some unforeseeable reason, I’m sure the waist peg would strip from the screw before the epoxy gives way.

While on the subject of scene-specific Luke figures, here’s a “Training on the Falcon” update using the Resurgence Luke body. My only goal here was to fit a decent head that would work with the blast shield helmet.





Here’s my attempt at updating Labria.



He’s basically a dyed TVC Bom Vimdin with POTF Labria’s head and a SL Greedo’s belt and blaster. I shaved and sanded the studs and quilted pattern from Bom’s vest, while leaving as much sculpted detail intact as possible. I also sanded the studs from Bom’s boots and Greedo’s belt. Bom’s torso already had a scarf and a raised collar, so after sculpting a cravat with green stuff, I sprayed the torso with VHT black. I prepped all the joints, then the arms and the part of the shirt visible at the bottom of the vest were dyed with Hi-Tech “Dark Gray,” the trousers were dyed with VHT “Dark Blue Satin,” and the gloves, belt, and boots were dyed with Hi-Tech “Brown.” Tamiya “Flat Brown” and “Aluminum” were used for the cravat and belt details, respectively. After fitting the head to the neck post, I removed the factory yellow drybrushing and gave the head a wash with Testors “Leather.”

As a side note, I typically use Goof-Off to remove factory paint from PVC parts before dyeing them. I don’t know if stripping the paint is necessary for adhesion, but I definitely want to avoid clogging details with excess layers of paints and dyes. Sometimes I’ll try DOT3 brake fluid on hard plastic, but it doesn’t always work. Don’t use DOT4 – It will eat plastic parts. I use q-tips to remove the majority of the paint, then wash off any remnants with a cheap paint brush dipped in a glass container of Goof-Off. This stuff will attack plastic very quickly, so I take a few quick swipes (three or four at most), then wash the part with Simple Green and an old toothbrush. Wash, dry, quickly remove a bit of paint, repeat. It’s tedious and slow, and I still occasionally screw up a piece beyond saving. After the paint is gone, I scrub the parts repeatedly with Simple Green, let them soak overnight in denatured alcohol, then wash them with Simple Green again.

I should probably see a therapist.

Here’s a pair of pinhead replacements. Ree-Yees uses the larger head from an ROTS Ask Aak figure. It’s a direct pop-on replacement with no modifications necessary. For PB, I tried the Gentle Giant bust earlier but I found that I prefer the POTJ head. I also drilled the post hole further to the rear of the head, which lets it sit further down.





Last for this installment, Garouf LaFoe got a vest with a more accurately shaped neck opening.



Thanks for looking, next up: Fun with Shapeways!
 
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