36" (91 cm) Death Star WIP (continued)

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Okay, quick update. Yeah didn't end up doing much on Sunday night, just binge watched Cobra Kai with my wife instead :p.

Nothing huge here, but I added another little play feature. Removable slides for the hangar bay. I'm planning on having one of the Falcon, Imp Shuttle, empty space, then maybe one with a Star Destroyer in the background or something. I'll add a clear plastic screen to give it the glassy look (although maybe it would be better off without since I guess it's more of a force field). I'll also have to figure out something better for the little pull tab since it kind of obstructs the view of the blast door a little.







 
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That's a great idea. Are you doing that for the Overbridge screen too? Like the options of more than one planet to aim the DS at? :{J
 
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Oh I didn't see the part about that being a dial. That's still really neat.

A way to swap out the planet could be a circular piece that pops out of place where the undamaged planet sits on the dial. But it would probably be a pain to swap out.

I just think it would be cool to have Jeddha and Endor in the DS's sights as well as other planets. It could be done with four or so swap out planets: desert, ice, water, and earth-like/forested.

If the disk was metal the swap out planet could be a magnet like a refrigerator magnet.

I hope I don't sound like I'm demanding that, just thoughts while I look at your cool DS dio. :{J
 
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I second the removable dial. The center pin could be removable, and hidden to look like a greeblie. Then you could have an endless supply of viewmaster type senerios for the DS to blow up. Jedha, Scarrif, Endor, Space Battle, or even Purgill hunting.

Oh, the Bay doors look great with the alternative slides. That makes it much more interesting visually.
 
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Another idea for a slide for the hangar door: Vader's TIE (flanked by his wingmen) from behind...

My first Death Star had a rotating wheel behind the Red Computer in the control room so Artoo could scroll through schematics looking for the Tractor Beam controls:



In the "Overbridge" I used two card printed front and back that could slide out of the wall for four different options on the viewscreen:



I felt that was enough for me. Of course, that was long before Rogue One...

In the end, it's your diorama, and in five years you can always come back and update whatever you want. Looking better every time!
 
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Well, the public has definitely spoken lol. Yes it is my diorama but with the intent of making something that would appeal to a wide range of collectors. I'll see what I can figure out. Perhaps if I added another layer of wall, it could contain an interchangeable slide, one to hold each dial. The removable pin wouldn't work unfortunately as it is actually seated directly behind the window frame.

Due to limited space, the slide won't accommodate any full-screen slides like yours, Muftak, as the outer edges will actually be the border and just star field, with the middle being the actual changing picture. By the way I really like what you did with the control room computer.

Thanks again for the input, guys!
 
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Well we are glad you decided to go that way. We voted and were going to make you do it anyway!!!lol

I think the pin would work but you would need to have it pull out of the docking bay side and you would need something hard on the window side so it doesn't go through (Flatten out a tin can). The window side would still need a recess for the pin to fit in. Or use something magnetic with a metal pin to help keep it in place.


If a pin won't work, just hollow out where the spinner would sit perfectly and let gravity keep it in place. It won't spin smoothly but it will still spin. Then, if you removed the outer (left) side of the window space pattern so more of the dial would show, You could increase that side of the spinning image. It would be tricky not to have parts of the other pictures show near the corner of the window though. Some spinners might only have 2 images on it.

I just realized that you could make the spinner double sided so you wouldn't need as many spinners. (Now I wounder if a place can be built to store the extras when not in use, like the trash compactor outer wall.)

Also, I noticed that you have a tiny bit of empty space in Leia's cell (outer edge). You could put a tiny toilet there.

If you put a ceiling on the droid Docking bay hidey-hole, then you could have the catwalk and another level for Stormtroopers to fire from. (That might spoil the view from the control room though.)
 
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I think an easy solution to the swap out screens is to have a removable outer frame over the swap out part.

For the hangar the outer rim of the hangar opening (white lit ring in the films) would be removable and would peg/snap in place.

For the overbridge or a console's readout you could have a swap out wheel under the removable panel. The pin for the wheel would be part of the removable panel.

How thick are the walls for the overbridge screen and the hangar opening? Are they more than one foamboard thick at that section? If they are I'd think it's at least doable.

And are you making any consoles like Muftak's with the changeable screens? :{J
 
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Lol Utinniii I like the toilet idea! My wife said way back that I should put a bathroom somewhere, and I was strongly considering it until I started running short on space. A nice little space-age toilet would be a cool accessory. Wonder what they looked like...

Kyp unfortunately I don't have plans for changeable consoles like Muftak's dio. Although that could change later on lol.

I'm going to stew on the whole spinner dilemma and kind of weigh my options for awhile as I work on some other things (in other words procrastinate).

So here's a little update...

Again props to NiubNiub for his great resources. His stuff has helped with a few areas in my Death Star already.

I did have to scale down the table a little bit so it would fit in the room. As it is this may leave a little room for a gunner station in one corner, though I would then want to fill up the other corner as well. Maybe I could just put a little hallway leading to the conference room on the other side. I do like the openness of the room as it is, however, so we'll see.






Only 6 chairs right now, reason being I plan to 3d print a whole set later on, maybe even have some swivel on the bases and the feet. And they are very time consuming. Plus I'm short 4 officers for the scene and the $150 or more to buy the overpriced set.



I used thumbtacks glued to pony beads for the wheels, and I thought they turned out ok. I may not even paint the wheels.





Enough of this. Vader, release him!






But that's a moon!





Just thought that was cool. Got my wife this 3d-printed moon lamp for Mother's Day. I joked that if only it was a Death Star lol.

Take care everyone, and be good to all the moms in your lives :)
 
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This is what I've been working on this week so far. I'm am sooooooooo sick of making control panels at this point, I'm going to work on something else for a while before I finish the Overbridge lol.








A preview of what I'll be working on today...


 
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...and a start to Palpatine's throne room. I have to say I'd originally intended to fit more in here, but based on how big the throne will be and wanting the stairs to have some decent size while still allowing room for the duty posts, this will be about it.

I'm pretty happy with how the stairs turned out. The window is just temporary to give an idea of where it will sit, and the size may change. My throne is on order so I'll see once I have it in hand to compare to.

In order to have everything fit within the outer shell, I'm thinking of having the throne somehow connected to the window at the base so they can be removed. The duty posts will also need to be removable. Everything else can stay.

Oh and please ignore the clutter. My wife has been super awesome about me having a little messy work area out in our dining room while I work on this. :weeabooface:







 
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Just look at all that. And that's just one side!

Do you have to have support beams later on? Or like a skeletal frame that the outer shell attaches to that also reinforces the inner levels?

Or is the weight of the figures low enough to not need more support?

One suggestion I'd make on the tractor beam emitter section is to have that round part facing out so you can pose Obi Wan better and see him in similar angles like we do in ANH. Is that piece already glued in? :{3
 
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It isn't, but I had to go with that configuration because otherwise it would get in the way of Luke and Leia's swing across the chasm. I originally wanted to have them grapple something on the tractor beam, but it would be too low. Now they will be grappling something hanging from the extra lift hub catwalk that I added in. So yeah unfortunately we don't get to see Obi-Wan pull the tractor beam lever :(

I'm pretty confident that the structure has enough support now after doubling up all the walls and floors. In addition to that, once everything is finished (smoothed out w/ drywall mud or something), sanded, painted and decals are in place, the walls will all be glued down.
 
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WHAT?!? I CAN'T SEE OBI WAN LOWER THE TRACTOR BEAM?!? *throws keyboard into orbit.

Why not make that upper catwalk the tractor beam emitter and still have them swing from it?

Then the lower catwalk is like that removable one from the 90's Kenner chasm swing playset. And you still have the chasm swing in the same area.

Either way, still a way better playset than anything Hasbro is making now. :{J
 
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Because I wanted Obi-Wan to be able to go from the tractor beam emitter to the duel room to meet his fate, plus it wouldn't fit up above where the extra lift hub catwalk is because of the position of the doors. Yeah I know, man, it's frustrating. I've had to make so many compromises in order to put every location in here that I wanted to. My dream project would probably be one twice as big, further down the road (well, besides my walk-in Death Star:whistling:).
 
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Thought this was interesting, though... I was calling printing services around town to see if I would be able to get 36" decals printed for my base walls. Turns out there are actually a couple places that can do it. In fact, one place even said they can print directly on foam board. It would cost $75 a piece, though, so I'd be looking at about $150 for the double-thick walls. Wish I'd known this before, though. Oh well.
 
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Thought this was interesting, though... I was calling printing services around town to see if I would be able to get 36" decals printed for my base walls. Turns out there are actually a couple places that can do it. In fact, one place even said they can print directly on foam board. It would cost $75 a piece, though, so I'd be looking at about $150 for the double-thick walls. Wish I'd known this before, though. Oh well.
As you can imagine, I have explored these avenues as well. Three years ago when I was researching building the cardboard Death Star for the masses, I was amazed to discover how quickly the prices on printing stuff escalates. I have a brother who works for a printing company, so I figured I had an "in" with discounts or whatever, but we couldn't figure out how to get costs down low enough to make the big prints feasible for the price ranges I was trying to hit.

I have been employing plenty of lower cost workarounds since, but as is typical you pay for those with extra labor on the production side. Just this week I found two adhesive solutions for all the decal/label issues, and it looks like everything is about to balance out in the sweet spot of price vs labor I've been looking for, which means I may finally be able to open the flood gates on the big playsets I want to create.

Your Death Star's skeleton is looking great...and the hardest/fun/most rewarding part is looming. I envy you being at this stage!

If you need any advice moving forward on the large-format printing that seems to be in your future, feel free to drop me a line and we can discuss it in detail.
 
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(I just realized the site crashed and this post didn't show up.)

I really like that more of the rooms are recognizable now.

Not to be greedy, but you might appreciate it later on if you took photos of both sides, even if you didn't work on the other side. It will be a better record of you building this and when you go back to these old photos later it will help with your timeline. It is also satisfying to look a pics every week and see the progression.

For the throne room what do you think about having some movable greeblies of the pipes near the ledge Vader throws Palps down.

Ben can either turn down a side dial, or re-enact distracting the troopers.
 
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Awesome job!!!
Thank you very much! :)

As you can imagine, I have explored these avenues as well. Three years ago when I was researching building the cardboard Death Star for the masses, I was amazed to discover how quickly the prices on printing stuff escalates. I have a brother who works for a printing company, so I figured I had an "in" with discounts or whatever, but we couldn't figure out how to get costs down low enough to make the big prints feasible for the price ranges I was trying to hit.

I have been employing plenty of lower cost workarounds since, but as is typical you pay for those with extra labor on the production side. Just this week I found two adhesive solutions for all the decal/label issues, and it looks like everything is about to balance out in the sweet spot of price vs labor I've been looking for, which means I may finally be able to open the flood gates on the big playsets I want to create.

Your Death Star's skeleton is looking great...and the hardest/fun/most rewarding part is looming. I envy you being at this stage!

If you need any advice moving forward on the large-format printing that seems to be in your future, feel free to drop me a line and we can discuss it in detail.
Hey I really appreciate that! Yeah I could definitely use any advice you have once I get to that stage. So far the most cost-effective solution I've found for the base walls is around $45 for the decals, of which I would need two. I don't anticipate the others being too costly, as they will mostly be smaller areas that would generally fit within a standard sheet of paper or slightly larger.

I think if I were to ever try to make these available it would be quite costly. We'll have to see how the finished product turns out. I would probably employ some 3d printing the second time around due to a lot of the time-consuming smaller details, which I'm actually already looking into.

(I just realized the site crashed and this post didn't show up.)

I really like that more of the rooms are recognizable now.

Not to be greedy, but you might appreciate it later on if you took photos of both sides, even if you didn't work on the other side. It will be a better record of you building this and when you go back to these old photos later it will help with your timeline. It is also satisfying to look a pics every week and see the progression.

For the throne room what do you think about having some movable greeblies of the pipes near the ledge Vader throws Palps down.

Ben can either turn down a side dial, or re-enact distracting the troopers.
Yeah, I can definitely take more pics, and that is actually a pretty good idea, to get more of a gauge of the actual linear process. I have a couple smaller things I added since last time but still a little more to do before the next round.

I wanted to have some of the pipes in the throne room initially. I think you're right about adding them, and it just wouldn't quite capture the scene without something like that, so I'll see if I can fit them in.

---

So, guys, I had a general question here, concerning the finishing process. The tentative plan was using drywall mud to kind of smooth out some of the edges and fill in some of the smaller cracks, then sanding it. But I'm worried about what this will do to the overall weight. Does anyone know of maybe a better process or better filler material to use?

Oh and I had a little eureka moment the other day while waking up (I've been having those a lot lately, and totally get why Edison, Dali and Aristotle slept with objects in their hands to wake them up from naps in order to get that quick spark of inspiration). I get what Kyp was talking about with the skeleton, because when I was thinking of how to attach the shell to the body, I thought I could have strips of plastic that perfectly fit along the edges of all the floors and walls, glued in, with little notches for the wall panels to slide into. This would not only add a little extra support, but would allow the panels to be easily removable.

So yeah I need to start saving for a 3d printer. Thinking of all the things that it would add to this project is getting me excited. Anyway, back to work!
 
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If I'd done the pattern in AutoCAD first, this probably would have turned out a little better. I think after finishing and painting it will be ok, though.





I also put up some temporary walls to divide the conference room. The right can be a gunner station and the left the hallway they use to enter. I'll probably keep them.











Couple more full body shots. Sorry bout the blurry pic.



 
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I can see why you did it that way.

The decals sound great except for the price.

Have you looked at 3d printing parts like wall panels, consoles, and other bits?

You could buy a cheap printer kit like the Tronxy X8 for $150 online and the spools cost from around $15-25. It would be cheaper than the decals and would get you into 3d printing at the same time.

There's tons of free Star Wars models on Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory including walls, doors, crates, and consoles. And slicing the model is simple.

Also, is the hangar section tall enough to have TIE gantries hanging from the ceiling? Cause that would be cool! :{J
 
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For a lot of my texturing, I use heavy modelling paste. However there is also (and I have never used it) Ultra? Light Modelling Paste. I imagine it would work the same way. If you get the chance, lift both and you will see that light modelling paste is at least half the weight.

I'm trying to remember which DS had the basketball hoop in the hanger bay model. I think it was DS II though.
 
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I can see why you did it that way.

The decals sound great except for the price.

Have you looked at 3d printing parts like wall panels, consoles, and other bits?

You could buy a cheap printer kit like the Tronxy X8 for $150 online and the spools cost from around $15-25. It would be cheaper than the decals and would get you into 3d printing at the same time.

There's tons of free Star Wars models on Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory including walls, doors, crates, and consoles. And slicing the model is simple.

Also, is the hangar section tall enough to have TIE gantries hanging from the ceiling? Cause that would be cool! :{J
You know actually, you just gave me another great idea. The gantries with even one TIE hanging from them might hang a little too low, but since I'm making a support anyway for the upper dome, maybe I could model it like a gantry, with the option of hanging a TIE from it if one so chooses.

Yes in fact I'm looking into 3d printing at the moment and comparing printers based on price, quality, and build size mostly. How soon I'm able to make the investment will determine how many of the accessories will be done in that way, but if I make another of these, there will be a lot more 3d-printed parts.

I'm actually interested in hearing personal experiences with 3d printing if you have any. The $150 model, is that the one that you have? How reliable has it been, and how long does it usually take to print objects? What's the build size and quality like (i.e. resolution, how many lines do you get going through your parts)?


I LOVE this, fantastic!
Thanks so much!!

For a lot of my texturing, I use heavy modelling paste. However there is also (and I have never used it) Ultra? Light Modelling Paste. I imagine it would work the same way. If you get the chance, lift both and you will see that light modelling paste is at least half the weight.

I'm trying to remember which DS had the basketball hoop in the hanger bay model. I think it was DS II though.
I'll have to look up modeling paste. Sounds like I'll have more options for keeping weight down that way, thanks!

---







 
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I'm currently using a Tronxy X8 with a 220mmx220mmx200mm(Z axis). It cost $150 for me online but I had to buy some $8 z axis rods off Amazon to finish it.

It's reliable IMO. I've only had problems with filament quality at this point. The printer itself is able to get fairly fine details. If you look on my diorama page with the 3d printed parts you can see some of the details.

The Porgs I printed have fine details in their faces that show up. But the smaller the object/detail the harder to print it accurately.

The default layer height is 0.3mm and the Rebels Hover crate I printed is at that setting. The Porgs are at 0.1mm layer height and this helps the finer details show up, but slows down the print time.

The crate prints at around 30 minutes, the Porgs are about the same.

I recently printed a free Gonk droid model that is already in 1/18th scale and it only takes 1 hour and 30 minutes to print out the 7 parts. And it's pretty accurate to the Hasbro toy and technically has 2POA like theirs, only it's slotted/peg legs.

I also have a Prusa Mk2.5 printer and it has the same build plate size and costs $700. I haven't used it yet though, so I can't tell you whether or not the cheaper one is just as good. But the Prusa does have auto leveling, so I assume it's going to print much better.

And on Thingiverse a lot of the Death Star stuff is already up and free. So I figured it would possible be worth your time to invest in. Plus I can only imagine how much more awesome this dio will get once you do try 3d printing out.

Oh and the new pics of the chasm swing look great. And now that I think about it, you have the elevated position for the Stormtroopers to shoot down at Luke and Leia too. :{J
 
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Haha one of the things that actually worked out well on this!

So I've been doing a lot of researching over the weekend on 3d printers and 3d printing. Did you know there's a 3d printer that can print a 3d printer?

Anyway, I keep seeing Prusa printers, which I thought was a brand name but then I'll see Original Prusa or Hictop Prusa, etc. They all seem to get different reviews. Would you be able to enlighten me into what Prusa actually is and why it appears under so many different brands? If you paid $700 for yours, it sounds like it's one of the better brands, and will probably work out pretty well for you based on reviews that I've read. Let me know!
 
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I'm going to try to make a gantry that a TIE might be able to hang from, but since I don't own a regular TIE at the moment, I don't really have the measurements. Would anyone who has one be able to provide me the a) wingspan b) height and c) length between the bases of the wings, where the hooks would attach to the gantry? This info would be greatly appreciated!
 
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I don't have a TIE, but in my version, I was considering micro machines for a forced perspective. They are much lighter as well!
 
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@Darth Sceptaurus

https://www.prusa3d.com/ These are the printers you're looking for...or at least the ones I'm talking about. :{J

I'll probably start using it this week so I'll get back to you on it. But the Tronxy is surprisingly good. It's already more than paid for itself with all the 3 3/4 Star Wars stuff I've printed at such a relatively low cost.

I'd say start out on a cheap rig and then after using it for awhile get the Prusa or the CR-10(larger print volume).

As for the TIE gantry, I have the 95 Kenner TIE and it measures:

10 1/2" from wing to wing.
9 1/8" from top to bottom of the wing.
7 1/2" from side to side with the wings off.
About 5 1/2" from front to back without the wings.
And 7 1/4" from front to back with the wings.

Here's a really good pic of the gantry and this is how it basically looks in Rebels:




@Utinniii I actually like that idea of using Micro Machines for the TIE's, but having the single TIE gantry would look better for displaying the figures. :{J
 
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About how heavy would you say the TIE is, Kyp? I'd originally thought the configuration could be made in such a way that it could be used as bracing, but the more pics I see the more it looks like they're just hanging straight from the ceiling pretty much. I'll throw around some ideas and see if it's still workable.

So it's looking like my next step is going to have to be cutting off the top dome so I can move it to the other room. My cat, after all this time, finally decided to try and jump on it and knocked a bunch of stuff off. Had my wife not been there the dogs might have chewed up some of my hard work. Not cool at all. I suppose this will give me time to work on some of the other stuff that requires disassembling the unit.
 
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I put it on its side on my food scale and with the pilot(POTF2) it was 14.4 oz and without it was 13.6 oz.

So about one pound with or without the pilot.

And that's a POTF2 TIE. I have an Interceptor if you want that weight too. It's the newer 2009-ish one with ejection seat and a newer pilot. It weighed 1 pound 1.4 ounces.

The TIE's hang on a rack that can move them into position under the walkways and ladders. This is so the TIE's can transit to repair bays.

Looking at your hangar, I'd say you could do a squished version of the walkway with a single TIE rack hanging. And the shape of that moving rack(chainsaw chain-like motion) is sort of like a coat hanger. lol Hangar, hanger. But seriously, you could use a small coat hanger upside down to hold the TIE's wing braces and then attach a ladder and walkway to it. Affix that assembly to the ceiling of the hangar and hopefully you have the space for it while not blocking that doorway under it.



And the walkway doesn't need a real door. You could just have one on the wall. I think your Overbridge is behind that wall.

You could have the TIE hanging with the top of its wings touching the ceiling and have a walkway that just butts up against the open ****pit. That would keep the TIE up higher. The ladder down is a neat play feature/design, but I don't think the hangar is tall enough for that.

That cat is a Jedi like his father before him...and he was gunnin' for the emperor. Hope it's easy to fix. :{J
 
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@Darth Sceptaurus I hope it's okay to post some images of the hanger I was mentioning.

These are from Wal-mart but I think I've seen this same shape before. I think it's for trunks/shorts but it might have been from women's clothes.



Their shape is what drew my eye. They're kind of like the lore version in overall shape, meaning the rounded edges of the hanger.



This seems to be a sweet spot for the hanger to hold the TIE's wing braces. The hanger's hook would need a little modification to allow the TIE to sit perfectly level.



And I thought I'd show it with the Interceptor to show that it works for both of these TIE's.



It's hard to see in this shot, but there's a piece of foamboard that I'm touching the hanger to to illustrate the needed height to make the hanger's functional. I tried just slotting the hangers onto the foamboard but then you can't place the TIE one the rack, so I checked this option out.



With a newer version pilot for height reference. The tip of the hanger's hook would need to be removed to allow the TIE to lift up and off of the hook and still clear the ceiling. The walkway of the gantry could sit directly behind the TIE at a height level with it's opened ****pit. This is a tight squeeze for a figure like Chewie, but a TIE pilot can still be displayed on the hypothetical walkway.



I threw this shot in with a ruler to act as more reference material if you're still thinking about the gantry. Not saying that you have the room for two TIE's side by side. I think a single TIE is still really cool.



I hope this helps if decide to make a TIE gantry. :{J
 
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This will be the last update before I disassemble it, which I admittedly have been putting off.



I thought about getting a 3d printed throne, but the POTF one is more than adequate. Since I didn't want to have to cut into the base, I decided to make my floor adaptable to it. Later I'll do my best to match the paint or maybe come up with a good texture that works with it. I may actually just use velcro to have the window detachable as I don't want to glue it to the throne.





I also added some of the pipes so Luke can have something to be electrocuted against. No an exact match and you may recognize some of these items, but hopefully once painted it will look okay.





And Kyp for the TIE gantry, thank you so much for all the dimensions and the info. So here's a mockup TIE I cut out based on those dimensions to show how it would fit if hanging from the ceiling.





As far as a permanent structure goes, it may be out of the question as the hooks would block the view of the bay. But I may be able to come up with something detachable that hooks onto the supports in some way.

Well I may be going a' drinkin' tonight, so at some point my motor skills will make further work be counterproductive, but I'll update as soon as I have more done. The next tasks will be of course to disassemble the structure, cut out lift hub doorways, cut off the top dome and add the connective pieces I had planned, and adjust the dimensions of the lift hub catwalk and skirting.

I also am considering bringing the wall behind the launch door in under the ceiling of the main wall, if that makes any sense, to give it a more sunken-in look, and possibly allow more room for the textures of the lights. As it is right now it's bugging the crap out of me because I don't like the aesthetics of having the texture folded like that. What I may do once I start the texturing process is just make an all new one with certain elements that will fit into a more compact space. Either way I think having that little alcove sunken in under the wall will also allow more room for accessories like the barrels and crates.

Have a great memorial weekend everyone!
 
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Those pipes are all kinds of awesome!

I think a "sitting" tie with a ladder would look better since the ceiling is so low.

Will the Emperor's window be cut out, or just seen from this side? What do you intend to do with the back of it?
Offhand, the laser dish might work, even if only partial. You could add slots to put the laser firing.
It won't matter if the dish is on the outer shell since this will be removed if the shell is on.
 

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I love all of this. You might want to just let the Tie sit on the ground while still doing a gantry to get in the top.

Also, there's a wall spackle for filling holes that is a foam. You can get it at home depot or wherever. I've gotten it in a small plastic container and it weighs like nothing, but hardens smooth and flat with no shrinkage.
 
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Oh that's where you were putting the TIE's? Huh, I thought it was over that door to the right(my right looking at the screen) of the hangar opening. Like it would be hanging.

I don't think that bay had TIE gantries anyways, but it would be neat if it could be squeezed in somehow.

I think that POTF2 Emp in throne works perfectly.

Amazon has this one for $11 that has the window as a physical piece if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Palpatine-Electronic-Collectible/dp/B000A7CUSI/ref=pd_sim_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000A7CUSI&pd_rd_r=XZVXWMNP5PVCZN1AZ73P&pd_rd_w=5CueK&pd_rd_wg=DpNhk&psc=1&refRID=XZVXWMNP5PVCZN1AZ73P

Not saying it would be that main one behind the throne, but I think the side windows are that same design but smaller. Plus you get a Palpatine that's shockin' the crap out of Luke. :{J
 
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Those pipes are all kinds of awesome!

I think a "sitting" tie with a ladder would look better since the ceiling is so low.

Will the Emperor's window be cut out, or just seen from this side? What do you intend to do with the back of it?
Offhand, the laser dish might work, even if only partial. You could add slots to put the laser firing.
It won't matter if the dish is on the outer shell since this will be removed if the shell is on.
Thanks, I wasn't sure if the pipes looked quite right, but if they're Utinniii-approved, then that's good enough for me;)!

The window will probably just be a texture so you can have the space scene behind it. The laser dish is actually kind of a cool idea for the other side, I might try something like that.

I love all of this. You might want to just let the Tie sit on the ground while still doing a gantry to get in the top.

Also, there's a wall spackle for filling holes that is a foam. You can get it at home depot or wherever. I've gotten it in a small plastic container and it weighs like nothing, but hardens smooth and flat with no shrinkage.
Thank you!! I found this stuff called DAP Fast 'N Final Lightweight Spackling. I'm not sure if it's the same thing you're talking about but I'll try it out and see. It was around $5 for 16 fl. oz. and it is extremely light. It says no sanding required, though, but hopefully it is still able to be sanded without causing problems.

Oh that's where you were putting the TIE's? Huh, I thought it was over that door to the right(my right looking at the screen) of the hangar opening. Like it would be hanging.

I don't think that bay had TIE gantries anyways, but it would be neat if it could be squeezed in somehow.

I think that POTF2 Emp in throne works perfectly.

Amazon has this one for $11 that has the window as a physical piece if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Palpatine-Electronic-Collectible/dp/B000A7CUSI/ref=pd_sim_21_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000A7CUSI&pd_rd_r=XZVXWMNP5PVCZN1AZ73P&pd_rd_w=5CueK&pd_rd_wg=DpNhk&psc=1&refRID=XZVXWMNP5PVCZN1AZ73P

Not saying it would be that main one behind the throne, but I think the side windows are that same design but smaller. Plus you get a Palpatine that's shockin' the crap out of Luke. :{J
I do need a lightning Palpatine but I might get the new 5POA one. I'd also like to have a really nice-looking SA version to sit on the throne, as well. The window is cool but yeah I'm going for something much larger.

Having the gantry above the duel room doorway would have made sense, but unfortunately the ceiling is too low. I'm actually thinking of just adding in a little balcony right there or something so it isn't just empty space. The gantry is still a possibility for the middle but if I do it I'd have to make it a detachable piece.
 
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