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Thread: 12" chewbacca repair help needed

  1. #1

    12" chewbacca repair help needed

    i have the 12" vintage chewbacca figure and one day upon walking into my star wars room, i noticed the one arm was lying on the shelf. very soon after i noticed that the other arm had come off. it seems that these two arms were held in place by a rubber band type thing that strung between the two and had, due to time, just worn out and broken (damn entropy).

    if anybody here could provide some help or information on how to fix this, i would be most appreciative. (materials, how to actually restring the rubber band, etc)

    Always looking for stormtrooper items-bootlegs, pre production, moc, foreign, etc
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  2. #2

    Re: 12" chewbacca repair help needed

    Yeah this common with Chewie and Vader. Id personally replace the doll as they are common on ebay and cheap!! If you want to repair it however, make sure the eyelet are not broke and use underwear elastic. Double up the elastic and thread it through one eyelet then put the arm in place, then feed the 2 ends of doubled up elastic through and thread it through the other arms eyelet. Now form the first part of a knot and pull tight, drawing the arms together (but not too tight)now form the last part of the knot and the knot should now be inside the doll, with the elastic firmly holding them together. Now simply cut the excess elastic off, poke what is left inside the arm joint. Voila done!

    Wanted: Boxed large size action figures - Kenner, Kenner Canada, Denys Fisher, Clipper, Mecanno, Toltoys, Takara, BASA, Palitoy, Lili Ledy, Toltoys ESB, preproduction, prototypes, box flats.

  3. #3
    I wanted to repair my vintage large-size figures but couldn't find a workable solution on any sites... so I came up with my own and am posting it on all the sites I visited while looking for info:

    My poor Chewbacca, Darth Vader, and Bionic Bigfoot have had no arms for around 25+ years, too. I was never able to fix them because I could never figure out how to attach a rubber band between the arms with enough tension to hold them to the body. What I needed to figure out was how to increase the tension - pull the arms together on the inside - when I was unable to access the interior of the figure.

    Well, it took 25+ years, but I finally figured it out (OK, to be honest, I never really gave it much thought until last night, but I tested my theory and it works. Instructions and photo guides below).

    1. Poor Chewie. He's sonically welded together, so I can't split his body into two pieces. Gotta work from within. But how?

    2. Here are the materials you will need. #28 O-Rings 5/8" O.D. x 1/2" I.D. x 1/16" and 4" 10cm Cable Ties

    3. Using needlenose pliers (and a ton of patience) I was able to pull the clips back through the holes in Chewie's arms. I then attached a paperclip to each so the clip would not slip back into the arm.

    4. Using a cable tie, attach an o-ring to the clip on one arm. You will only need to do this with one arm. Cut the end of the tie.

    5. Slip another cable tie through the 0-ring.

    6. Insert the ends of the cable tie into the body and out the other side.

    7. Loop the cable tie around the clip of the other arm. I decided to leave the paperclip on the arm clip for the day when the o-ring eventually disintegrates. That way I won't have to go fishing for the arm clip again in the future.

    8. Pull the cable tie until the arms are nice & secure. Once the inner tension has reached a point you are satisfied with, you can either cut the end of the tie or do what I did and tuck it into the body.

    9. Tah-dah! Good as new! This process worked for Chewie, Darth Vader, and the Bionic Bigfoot. Good luck, everyone!

  4. #4
    Whoaaa... that is awesome! Great work and very clearly explained.
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  5. #5
    Yeah, I like that. The zip tie is a new twist.
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  6. #6
    I have the same problem with a 12" Vader, but with a bonus. The hole on one socket has torn.What is the best glue to use to fix the tear?
    Take note, I've tried almost everything.
    The ones that have not worked:
    Super Glue
    Gorilla Glue
    Plastruct Plastic Weld
    Testers Liquid Cement
    Oakley Plumbers Glue

    It's really getting frustrating trying to find ANYTHING to get this kind of plastic to bond.

  7. #7
    What do you mean torn?

    Has a piece broken off or what?

  8. #8
    Epoxy glue does a good job at bonding plastic, but can be messy and tricky to work with. And even if you cannot get it stick the first time, glue the items together, and let them sit for 24 hours. Then apply a second coat around where you glued and let that sit for 24 hours. Should hold.
    Last edited by comicalUser; 02-26-2018 at 12:47 PM.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by PotatoFighter View Post
    What do you mean torn?

    Has a piece broken off or what?

    Also, Zap-A-Gap is a no-go as well.

    Each glue I've used, I've roughed the edges first, applied, secured in place with blue painter's tape to avoid too much tact, and let cure by 24 hours.
    Some have a hard time drying at all and the ones that have dried just flake off from the plastic.

  10. #10
    You could try filling in the area with sculpey of some sort

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