Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
Like Tree2Likes

Thread: Afa q

  1. #1
    Lieutenant Commander MichaelSVX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scranton, PA

    Afa q

    So I started my MOC collection and would like to know how some of you approximate an AFA grade. I'm not really out to make money on my new pastime but at these prices it would be nice to know my purchases aren't considered beaters. So far from at least 6 different people my pieces are all very similar condition. Some veins, some punched, some bubble dings nothing cracked, lifted or yellow. I've been looking at graded items and they seem to be all over the place. For example a cut pop doesn't seem to bring the grade down all that much. Some look perfect and score low, what gives? Some look beat and score ok. I don't plan on having anything graded, I would just like some insight.

  2. #2
    High Admiral CraigMac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    New York, NY

    A cut pop brings the grade down drastically. I've never seen a cut pop score above a 60. Not saying higher grades don't exist but just never seen them.
    Last edited by CraigMac; 07-25-2014 at 09:46 PM.

  3. #3
    Lieutenant Commander MichaelSVX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scranton, PA

    I stand corrected. The example I referred to was a high priced item, not high grade.

  4. #4
    Lieutenant Commander MichaelSVX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scranton, PA

    Anybody? Quick tips on self grading. Link would do.

  5. #5
    Lieutenant Commander
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    New Jersey, United States

    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelSVX View Post
    Anybody? Quick tips on self grading. Link would do.
    I'm not sure I would call these tips for self grading but they are what I look for when buying a MOC figure. I really think it's a combination of individual flaws and issues that determine the grade and not something that is 100% consistent every time. I've done good so far as everything I've sent out has come back 80-85s. Of course I have six more coming back in a couple weeks so I probably just jinxed myself.

    I look for any glaring defects/issues, dented bubbles, creases, deep veins, tears, heavy edge wear, scratches, etc. Your overall score is usually determined by the worst flaw. I usually gently run my fingers around the bubble feeling for dents, check for lifting around the bubble and hold the card at different angles in different light sources if possible to look for any hard to see issues. Also what I did that helped me out was when I sent in my first few figures I opted for the detailed grading report and this gave me an idea what they were dinging me on and what I should start being aware of when buying.

    If you want to post some pics I'm sure other members would give their opinion.

    Hope this helped.

  6. #6
    Captain porkinsred6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    East Coast US

    unless you have a really rare or commonly counterfeited piece, anything with dents or dings and possibly veins isn't worth grading.

    Here's a brief guide on ebay (written by brian's toys) How to Grade Star Wars Toys | eBay scroll down some to get the levels of vintage toys. It don't think it's worth getting something graded unless it's a C-8.5 but maybe I'm too picky. Remember grading is expensive. If you just want a nice case, there are cheaper alternatives.

  7. #7
    High Admiral CraigMac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    New York, NY

    You have to look at all aspects including the the sub categories of card, figure and blister. Not really sure what you're trying to accomplish but there is no exact science to it but just an understanding you get when you look at these day in and day out. I personally wouldn't send anything in unless it was a guaranteed 80 (there are exceptions based on the rarity of the item).

    Remember that flaws like ink, cut pop, etc. will ding your overall score big time so spend time inspecting the card. Cards will still grade an 80 with minor veining but scratches, big creases and wear will bring it down. Punched tabs to my knowledge don't have any bearing on the score. Blisters that are cracked and/or dented will hurt.

    Looking at other examples will always be your best bet. You could always post pics for opinions.

  8. #8
    Lieutenant Commander MichaelSVX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Scranton, PA

    Thank you for all the replies! I just started buying these a couple of months ago after completing my loose collection. I have just been buying what I like and am able to afford. I don't want to buy graded items just ones that are pleasing to the eye without cracks in the bubble or any lifting also no cut pops. I'm just trying to fine tune my purchases based on afa grades. Above 50 would be nice so I hope I'm not far off the mark, 80s are way out of my budget If you don't mind please take a moment to check out what I have so far and let me know where I stand. B-Wing pilot was a trade and not what I consider a permanent spot in my collection but I have him and he can be used to gauge the lower end of the scale.

    MOCs 7-30-2014 Slideshow by subarusvxlsl | Photobucket

    Thanks again - Mike

  9. #9
    Captain porkinsred6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    East Coast US

    I think you are doing a great job so far! Most of those figures display very well even with their flaws. It's hard to tell from the pictures but I would think at least some of those might be a 70. Not worth getting graded though

  10. #10
    Captain porkinsred6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    East Coast US

    The Luke X-Wing Pilot is really nice. Might be a 75.

    What's wrong with the 2-1b? I don't see any problems with it.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •