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Thread: Bandai Tamashii Nations Cho-go-kin Die Cast Perfect Model R2-D2

  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by Tweekem View Post
    Can someone tell me how to get the dome off? I don't wanna pull too hard n bust it.
    It's is very sturdy. just grip on either side of the dome with forefinger and thumb and pull straight up
    Last edited by vader619; 10-23-2017 at 04:21 PM.

  2. #82
    I find the red/blue eye too bright on the Tamashii R2. Also the LED bulb of the eye is too obvious. They should have put a frost lens inside to filter the brightness and hide the LED bulb like found in the SS & HT. The illumination on the SS & HT R2 is more correct. Also Tamashii's dome's shape is a bit odd. So there goes the "perfect". Because none of the three are perfect. However, all three have their own pros and cons. The HT's dome is a sure winner plus the weathering. While the SS R2's accessories are nice especially the magnetic retraining bolt. Then the Tamashii's body and legs are best among the three.
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  3. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicadraus View Post
    Then the Tamashii's body and legs are best among the three.
    I own multiples of the the SS versions and also one of the HT and love them all. While I own the Tamasshii C3PO, I still can't accept the obvious rivets on the R2 which make it a deal killer for me.
    Star Wars collector since 1977.
    Life or Death? Star Wars collecting is much more serious than that!
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  4. #84
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    I own multiples of the the SS versions and also one of the HT and love them all. While I own the Tamasshii C3PO, I still can't accept the obvious rivets on the R2 which make it a deal killer for me.
    I get that. I was put off at first as well. I ended up taking the plunge to pair with the C3PO. In hand, I do not really notice the rivets. Maybe it is a combination of them not truly sticking out and the lighting in my display area, but I would need to look hard to see them. Don't know if that helps, but if someone were to be on the fence, I would say go for it.
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  5. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by Nicadraus View Post
    I find the red/blue eye too bright on the Tamashii R2. Also the LED bulb of the eye is too obvious. They should have put a frost lens inside to filter the brightness and hide the LED bulb like found in the SS & HT. The illumination on the SS & HT R2 is more correct. Also Tamashii's dome's shape is a bit odd. So there goes the "perfect". Because none of the three are perfect. However, all three have their own pros and cons. The HT's dome is a sure winner plus the weathering. While the SS R2's accessories are nice especially the magnetic retraining bolt. Then the Tamashii's body and legs are best among the three.
    Before i start, let me say that I DO think the HT is an extremely nice model in it's own right and it's details and weathering are faithful to the R2 seen in TFA. That said:

    Actually, Tamashii's dome shape is the only one that is correct of the 1/6 trio to the prototype R2 seen in the opening sequence of ANH, at least to my nit-picky OCD eye. The actual R2's did not have a perfect, round/spherical dome shape (like a ball cut in half). In fact, they had the more elongated look the Tamashii has. The actual ANH prototype is seen in the above pic - and Tamashii's is true to this. SS and HT domes, while nice, are not correct in respect to OT R2's (but I DO like the fact HT went with a diecast dome and wish Tamashii would've too... though the paint app on theirs is nearly perfect and puts SS's to shame).

    As to the rivets - on the in-hand model they are only slightly more evident to the naked eye as those in the picture I posted of the actual R2 that Tamashii based their model on.

    The slots to open the front panels is a minus, but in all reality, in-hand, they are not glaring or toy-like in appearance. They are a minor sacrifice to justify the way in which the panels open. The fact that they DO open (along with the panel covering the charging receptacle) is another plus over the HT.

    The illumination on the Tamashii is superior to HT with random patterns which are more accurate to the prototype than HT's repeating pattern. And the sound is also superior. The way the electronics function allowing the dome lights to work separate of the projector (and how they are activated/deactivated) is easily one up on HT too. The ease of access to, and type of batteries utilized is also a plus.

    I will agree with you on the led bulb/lack of filter issue though. There is a ridiculously easy modification that I just finished performing which resolves the issue entirely. It was very simple and straight-forward. Cracked the dome open, removed the two "trays" inside, and using Roscolux gel samples (used for theatrical lighting to produce colors and effects) chose a nice frosted gel (#111 Tough Rolux), cut two filters (one for each of the round lights front and rear) and inserted them between the outer dome and inner structures with friction holding them in place perfectly. The result was OUTSTANDING! When off, you see a frosted aperture (like on the SS) with no bulb showing, and when activated, a much softer, prototypical defused light showing.

    I used this same technique on my Tama 3PO (using the same gel samples, but choosing a dark brown, that when illuminated by the bright LEDs, looks like the soft yellowish-golden glow of his eyes as seen in the movies). Trust me guys, if i can do it, anyone can!

    Here's a link to another enthusiast who made the same mods to his Tamashii R2. The results speak for themselves.http://www.sideshowcollectors.com/fo...=1#post9520278
    Last edited by vader619; 11-05-2017 at 01:40 AM.

  6. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by vader619 View Post


    Before i start, let me say that I DO think the HT is an extremely nice model in it's own right and it's details and weathering are faithful to the R2 seen in TFA. That said:

    Actually, Tamashii's dome shape is the only one that is correct of the 1/6 trio to the prototype R2 seen in the opening sequence of ANH, at least to my nit-picky OCD eye. The actual R2's did not have a perfect, round/spherical dome shape (like a ball cut in half). In fact, they had the more elongated look the Tamashii has. The actual ANH prototype is seen in the above pic - and Tamashii's is true to this. SS and HT domes, while nice, are not correct in respect to OT R2's (but I DO like the fact HT went with a diecast dome and wish Tamashii would've too... though the paint app on theirs is nearly perfect and puts SS's to shame).

    As to the rivets - on the in-hand model they are only slightly more evident to the naked eye as those in the picture I posted of the actual R2 that Tamashii based their model on.

    The slots to open the front panels is a minus, but in all reality, in-hand, they are not glaring or toy-like in appearance. They are a minor sacrifice to justify the way in which the panels open. The fact that they DO open (along with the panel covering the charging receptacle) is another plus over the HT.

    The illumination on the Tamashii is superior to HT with random patterns which are more accurate to the prototype than HT's repeating pattern. And the sound is also superior. The way the electronics function allowing the dome lights to work separate of the projector (and how they are activated/deactivated) is easily one up on HT too. The ease of access to, and type of batteries utilized is also a plus.

    I will agree with you on the led bulb/lack of filter issue though. There is a ridiculously easy modification that I just finished performing which resolves the issue entirely. It was very simple and straight-forward. Cracked the dome open, removed the two "trays" inside, and using Roscolux gel samples (used for theatrical lighting to produce colors and effects) chose a nice frosted gel (#111 Tough Rolux), cut two filters (one for each of the round lights front and rear) and inserted them between the outer dome and inner structures with friction holding them in place perfectly. The result was OUTSTANDING! When off, you see a frosted aperture (like on the SS) with no bulb showing, and when activated, a much softer, prototypical defused light showing.

    I used this same technique on my Tama 3PO (using the same gel samples, but choosing a dark brown, that when illuminated by the bright LEDs, looks like the soft yellowish-golden glow of his eyes as seen in the movies). Trust me guys, if i can do it, anyone can!

    Here's a link to another enthusiast who made the same mods to his Tamashii R2. The results speak for themselves.http://www.sideshowcollectors.com/fo...=1#post9520278
    That was a good job there.
    Works1200 - The Technics SL1200/1210 specialist
    Nicadraus' Lamborghini - Raging Bull collection

  7. #87
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    Last edited by Desert_Trooper; 11-13-2017 at 02:10 PM.
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  8. #88
    Just "updated" my updates to the lighting of the dome. I really wanted to tone down the brightness a little more on the front and rear round "processor state indicator" light lenses, so I added an additional frosted gel filter around each bulb in addition to the filter placed over the lens I had earlier installed. It worked perfectly!

    Then I decided I wanted to at least try to make the rear "processor state display" light a little more true to the one on the ANH R2. I selected another gel from my samples, this time a dark orange filter. I mounted it behind the frosted get filter so that it would not show from the outside when the lights were off. Wasn't sure what I'd end up with. Turns out I'm very happy with it. As it goes through it's flashing sequence, this light now transitions from a pale blue, to violet and then to a shade of yellow.

    While the pale blue and violet phases aren't screen accurate (should transition from green to yellow), the yellow is much closer, and the effect is very pleasing to the eye (especially with the adjacent pulsing green rectangular "rear logic display" light), giving a nice range of eye-catching colors to the rear of the dome and far different from the front "processor state display" lens which transitions between red and blue and adjacent stacked square blue fade-out "front logic display" lights.

    VERY easy to achieve!
    Last edited by vader619; 11-15-2017 at 02:00 AM.

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